NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

Click for: NV200 Campervan build index, Also all Necessary tools used. Full conversion spec here. All photos taken during build

We had anticipated using 25mm kingspan/celutex insulation and then ply floor and flooring on top.  But, as we are restricted on height we changed our minds and changed to 7mm foam/silver backed insulation – the same we are using on the roof and other places and have been impressed.  This gives us an extra 18mm height and every little helps!

This makes a few other challenges, and battens need to be 5mm (5mm + 2mm of bonding) to go flush with the 7mm insulation.  But, 5mm wood isn’t ideal!

So, the floor has 2 front/back recesses where we were able to put 15mm thickness (x25) batten bonded in – so we’ll use these to screw in.  The edges and L/R battens are only there to glue the ply to, and aren’t needed for structural support.  Some support was given where there was a bit of a recess.

All minor recesses (7-10mm) were insulated with some of the foam before a final layer was filled in, then joints taped (vapour barrier) etc.

The offside step was removed and the framework built over there so the floor can be flush to the door as this is needed for the fridge.

The fuel tank sender unit has a cover behind the drivers seat which, sadly, is partly in the open and partly under the fridge.  So a framework has been made there with removable panel, and this will be measured and marked.  Thus if we need future access, we can remove the fridge, cut the flooring, and remove the panel easily.  Much easiler than having to guess where it is and take the whole floor up (which is impossible).

The wheel arches were insulated with 7mm foam insulation and sealed with tape.

The ply lining floor needed to be modified to fit around the newly insulated wheel arches, around the step, and around the rear vent which is in the way when the floor is raised.

Getting the ply down was a right pain as it was slightly warped, so the glue and small screws into the 5mm wouldn’t hold – so good job we have loads of van batteries as we used these for weight!  The glue seemed to go off overnight (phew).

The top layer of flooring is industrial grade Altro which is glued down, but currently only in the NS rear to allow us to do other things and still “roll up” the front and offside as needed.

The OS floor area is left for now pending requirements when we build the furniture


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15 thoughts on “NV200: Insulating and installing Floor”

  1. Love this blog.Thank you for sharing. A few questions….The insulation used on floors,wheel wells,do you know of a US based company?
    Can I glue carpet directly to the insulation,especially on the wheel wells? I assume so since nothing was mentioned. ‘m pretty sure I will have more questions in the near future(yah you!)

    1. No idea of US company, its just 7mm closed cell foam with silver vapour barrier and one side and high temp adhesive on the other. You NEED high temp adhesive otherwise it will melt and drop off in the dun.
      I glued carpet directly to the insulation – see build pics. Again – HIGH QUALITY HIGH TEMP contact adhesive.

  2. I’m in the early stages of converting a combi – is there an easy way to remove the steps? The main one of interest is the offside one as I need to check to see if there’s water leaking under it – it may just be from the door handle (there was obvious water on the step and also in the clear plastic inside the door, which should have stopped it getting onto the step). Of course, it could just be from when I got in yesterday, but I don’t think it was raining that heavily.
    There are 2 obvious clips at the ends of the step but it’s still reluctant to move and I don’t want to force it. Any help greatfully received

    1. Hi. The door handle is designed to leak, so you need to ensure there is a drainage channel. The step is obvious 🙂 ON THE VAN VERSION there are only a few obvious bolts and then it pulls off. FROM MEMORY the step is clipped in by rubber-over-ball type fittings so is snug when fitted and needs coaxing off. Be brave! (Assuming it is the same of course!!) If you send me a photo I can say if it looks the same?

      1. Thanks. I’ll look again when I have time tomorrow and get some photos, but on entering the van this morning there was water on the step again and signs of water getting through along the seal at the top of the door. The seal seems to be intanct so unclear what’s going wrong. 7 days left on the warranty so will have to investigate soon

        1. Ours is fine and doesn’t leak at the top, but our transit did briefly.
          The sliding door can be adjusted and “pulled in” at the top – so MAYBE yours is slightly out of adjustment. Maybe stick lots of strips of paper so they are trapped at the top by the seal when door is closed, and see if they pull out easily. If so seal is not compresed enough.
          The adjustment was on the “clips” where the door closes (on the transit).

          1. Thanks. I’ve discovered that the slight leak was because the weather strip seal on the body where the door meets at the top was missing on the off-side. They’re looking for it but I’m not holding out much hope. The seem to be difficult to find online except from the US or Germany so I may need to go to a dealer.

            re. the plastic steps. For anyone wanting to remove them in the future – they’re fixed with plastic clips. Half of them can be seen if you get under the car and they can be freed with pliers whilst pulling up on the step at that location. Once one edge is done the other edge comes up reasonably easily.

  3. Hi, what’s the thickness of the battens you used around the wheels? I wasn’t sure if they are 5mm or 15mm. Did you put 11mm plywood on the top of them?

    1. Not sure where you mean? the wheel arches? If so the arches are just the 7mm foam insulation and carpet straight over the wheel arch.
      We only battoned the floor as above – and really can’t remember the sizes.

      1. Hi there. I’ve been following your blog keenly and am doing a conversation on my own NV. Question if I may, did you fill up the area behind the vent trims vents behind the wheel arches? Or is some sort of air exchange required down there?


        1. Hi
          I insulated the entire bit – BUT – I left the vent clear to the outside – so there is airflow there. Your enemy in a small van is condensation and having air movement is essential. Our roof light and side windows are also “vented” – so there is always air movement. Without it, when you breath, the air gets moist, and in an hour or two the inside of the van would be wet. Also you want CO and CO2 (and propane) to get out – so low vents are good. So – keep vents open 🙂

  4. Hi what trim did you use to finish around the edge of the floor please great job by the way I’m just doing my nv now

    1. Hi. Where abouts? In most places, nothing. Over the door edge and rear? If so I used a large rubber stair nose and cut it down and fixed with stixall

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