11 weeks in. Getting tough now, pretty much full time on it – so lots of hours!
Couple of disasters – make worktop and fitting the top laminate and the wind caught it and stuck wrong… Damn it. (also buggered the spare). Had to buy new ply (expensive lightwight stuff) and laminate. Expensive error an a waste of a day or so. On the brightside, we didn’t like the laminate so changed it for the repurchase!
And the upholsterers cut the foam, perfect, but then laid it wrong and cut a cushion 3cm short. So awaiting replacement. Amazingly good though.
Starting to feel like a van and surprisingly spacious. Still, loads to do…
In the last 3 weeks we have:-
- Finished most of the sliding door
- Made water system live (loo only)
- Installed bathroom floor and loo (temporary)
- Installed 12v control panels, water control panels, and 12v wiring looms (90% complete)
- Installed 240v wiring (60% connected)
- Insulated and covered behind kitchen sink
- Created worktop with recessed smev 9722 sink and dual burner (not connected)
- Created panels for fridge
- Commissioned diesel heater with dedicated fuel tank
- Build bed framework (v2) and ordered/got cushions/upholstery – awaiting remake of incorrect cushion.
- Connected Truma Ultrastore 10ge heater (no gas yet)
Thats probably about it!
Hi Ryan
Thanks for sharing all your van build knowledge. We bought Peugeot Boxer H2L2 and are inspired by your layout. We love the idea of having a garage and a functional area.
We have ordered our van with the interface box and (to our surprise) have not received any manual or instruction on how to use it. I have noticed that in one of your videos you are mentioning connecting to an interface box. Would you be able to share any knowledge – we wish to connect our DC to DC Renogy charger to it.
Hi
Sorry, your comment was spammed for some reason! Yes, you need to go to https://www.misterg.org.uk/camper-converters-socket.html and read that. That is well written and covers the socket. The only pain is getting the terminal for the +12v feed but the info on teh page is accurate. We are only using +12v, KEY+ and D+ wires (KEY+ and D+ to run a relay to give +12v on “my” D+) – MrG block will explain all. My 0v Im taking direct from chassis. Just be aware D+ is actually “0v on active” whereas things (B2B, step, tracker etc) expect “+12v on active” hence the relay
Hope this answers q – good luck!
(PS layout works really well in the real world!)