• From jamie Zimmer on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

    Hi mate do you have the measurements for the wardrobe and sink units I’m having my hair rock and roll bed made by a company in Birmingham and would really appreciate the information on the wardrobes I’ve been following your build for the last 6 months trying to get my head round the way you did it and I’m loving the way that you detailed everything in your website absolutely awesome well done mate so envious!
    Oh and I’ve got an NV200 exactly the same as yours even to the colour that’s if you still have it as I see that you was going to be getting a large vehicle anyway take care and thanks for the inspiration

    Go to comment
    2019/03/13 at 7:06 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

      Hi
      Yep, still have it, and still using it to the max. Van#2 is (probably) a 2020 project….
      If you are ever in Wiltshire happy for guided tours. The NV is very very tight as you know, so sizing is a compromise. My sink is a CAN FL1401 I think so google that for exact dimensions. The bed frame is 100cm wide, and there is mm clearance between that and the wardrobe and that and the nearside wall. My dimensions of wardrobe may not help as it depends on what you have on either side and how you’ve lined – e.g. if I say 400mm deep, you may only have 380 if you lined it differently…..
      Happy to answer anything specific – but bear in mind the answer may be correct for me, and wrong for you (trying to be helpful lol – though it reads bad!)

      Go to comment
      2019/03/13 at 7:10 am
      • From jamie Zimmer on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

        Haha no that’s fine mate any help I can get is a bonus as I’m a total novice in this field I’ve been looking at a company called Conwy campers who do the complete build for ยฃ6,000 and I can’t justify paying that and that’s why I’m at this stage right now I would be very interested to know how much the camper conversion cost you just for comparisons sake I actually think that given the van is exactly the same as your own I’m going to follow your build to every detail believe it or not even to the lining so I need any info on the lining would be massively appreciated Ryan..๐Ÿ‘

        Go to comment
        2019/03/13 at 4:28 pm
  • From Mark on Home to Bergen

    Hi, What type of vehicle do you choose for NV200 when you buy the Ferry tickets? I know it can fit in car dimensions but I am not sure?

    Go to comment
    2019/02/27 at 4:25 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on Home to Bergen

      Hi
      I priced up car/camper/MPV and gave dimensions where needed, and from memory saw no difference. I know I called up one of the ferry companies and they didn’t seem bothered. So its gone on as camper (if same price) or car/mPV if cheaper. Never got a second look.
      We are under 1.9m and a few times put on the car deck, but a few times pulled out and put with vans. Never an issue. Hope that answers

      Go to comment
      2019/02/28 at 2:30 am
  • From Rob on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!

    Great article! Being a Transit owner I have bookmarked your page just in case…
    Very many years ago as a youth, my first experience of car ownership involved a visit to the main dealers; they lied to me, treated me like s**t, didn’t even fix the problem (I had do it myself) & charged me a fortune for the pleasure. I have avoided them like the plague ever since! Your experience with Ford doesn’t surprise me in the least.
    The trouble with modern vehicles is the technology! All those sensors potentially giving false & misleading reports to the ECU. Added to which are the dealers who think they’ll make a few 100 quid out of you when they think it’s an easy job. Or who are incompetent or maybe can’t even be bothered to diagnose the problems properly, when a dedicated amateur can eventually work it out for him / herself.
    Good on ya! I always like a self taught enthusiast.

    Go to comment
    2019/02/19 at 7:19 pm
  • From Mark on NV200: Gas locker

    Hi,
    Have you thought of using a refillable Gaslow bottle?
    It’s the same size as the Campingaz 907.

    Go to comment
    2019/02/02 at 10:32 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

      Yeah, had Gaslow on the other van (but 6kg size, didn’t know they did smaller). But with solar/compressor fridge (which is free power due to solar, and easier venting for the location I want); and diesel heating, gas usage is actually quite small. A 6kg calor will last 3+ months for just cooking and water, and hence gaslow not really needed…. Depends on usage – if you have gas fridge or heating, gaslow is a no brainer!. Have to say, if I ever do need to add refillable gas, converting calor to gaslow is trivial – though I’d probably go Gas-it and a bigger underslung tank….

      Go to comment
      2019/02/02 at 10:37 pm
  • From Joakim Eriksson on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing

    A tip. I have had major problems with ctek’s chargers, it seems that ctek doesn’t keep the measure right. In the past, we used expensive chargers, ctek mx7 (000) for our leisure batteries and all of a sudden, ctek thinks it is wrong with all batteries except one. when i use a china charger it works without problems. last ctek charger died without warning about the day.

    Go to comment
    2019/01/21 at 5:11 pm
  • From Zack on Design of Van #2

    This looks quite similar to what you want to build
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-MWB-Crafter-campervan/392216360019?hash=item5b51eab453:g:FTwAAOSwsqxcPQXz

    Go to comment
    2019/01/17 at 10:59 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on Design of Van #2

      Some similarities at the front and bulkhead for sure, but no bathroom in that one. Pretty good getting 2+2 and bikes in there though.
      Our design hasn’t been tweaked much in the last few weeks, so we are *almost* there design wise, now just need to find where to source the specific bits ๐Ÿ™‚ Thanks for the link

      Go to comment
      2019/01/17 at 11:27 am
  • From Lowie Van Ermen on NV200: Curtains and blinds

    Hi MQ

    Have you tried the blinds from the spanish shop yet?
    I’m thinking of buying them.

    Lowie

    Go to comment
    2019/01/14 at 2:24 pm
  • From Gerry McLaughlan on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing

    Thats a bummer ! I would have expected more than 2 yrs from your batteries !

    Go to comment
    2019/01/07 at 7:47 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing

      Yeah – is a bit odd. The first charger I had (recommended by a supplier) whacked in 15.7v every time the fridge cut in, and took me a while to notice. Maybe that did damage? Dunno. Maybe the batteries aged? They were only ยฃ55 each…. so…โ€ฆ.. lol

      Go to comment
      2019/01/07 at 7:54 pm
  • From Mark Russell on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

    Hi Ryan. Fantastic blog am just starting an NV200 conversion using it as inspiration / guidance. Did the ctek250 need any other wiring (a D+signal) apart from the live feed from the vehicle battery to let it know when the engine was running or not?
    Thanks
    Mark

    Go to comment
    2019/01/05 at 4:36 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      Forgot to say, the Euro 6 I’ve not seen, so *may* have a smart alternator and need the D+ signal wired in. Just measure V+ after a long drive and when VB is charged and see if v>14v. If so it should be fine.

      Go to comment
      2019/01/05 at 4:43 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      Hi. Nope. I have the older D250s not the D250SA which wasn’t invented when I did it. The Euro 5 I have (2016) does not have a smart alternator so isn’t an issue. If you are the same you don’t need to worry. The ignition feed is just for the smart alternator functionality (I read the manual a few days ago lol). Mine is just as per blog, + direct to vehicle battery, + to LB’s, + to Solar, and -.

      Go to comment
      2019/01/05 at 4:39 pm
  • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

    Good luck with your new project! We plan to travel to Europe for a few months and we have just realised that we can’t recharge calor outside the UK. Do you think we can just use the campingaz 2.75 bottle with the same setup?

    Go to comment
    2018/12/27 at 10:00 pm
  • From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds

    Unfortunately I can’t find the thermal blinds for the windscreen anywhere…
    Do you know if they still sell them?

    Go to comment
    2018/10/12 at 4:00 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Curtains and blinds

      No idea – they don’t appear on my search any more. I bought from https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gll2design – so maybe contact them direct?
      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/10/12 at 5:05 pm
  • From Jim on NV200: Fitting skylight

    yes sounds OK. I think I will ask about the monthly service plan myself. Thanks again

    Go to comment
    2018/10/12 at 12:58 pm
  • From JIm on NV200: Fitting skylight

    Ryan /Mel

    I see lots of van conversions removing a section of the roof beam to allow a squarish vent to be fitted.

    One thing that concerns me is the purpose of the roof beam is perhaps there to provide van shell rigidity.

    Having seen so many examples of it done I guess it is OK to do this, but would be grateful for your comments on that.

    I also know that some manufacturers (or their approved dealers invalidate warranties. A major national UK dealership once told me that if I was to repair a faulty window motor regulator in a Renault Scenic myself, that they would not honour the warranty on the car…. but I think they were just being “jobs worths”

    Like you, I am probably going to buy a new NV200 van.

    jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/11 at 10:11 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting skylight

      The roof struts in the NV do not appear structural – they are more anti-rattle and to give roof some ridigity if you stand on it. I was also worried, but no problem. They are just glued on – so I cut through the bar and then the glue. No issues. Its not for roll over protection or anything like that

      The dealer said “anything you touch may not be covered by warrantee” which is fair enough. I explained what I was doing and they said “well if you cut a hole and it rusts its not going to be covered”. However my build deliberately didn’t touch any of the van drivetrain – apart from the diesel pick up and the battery – but no “changes” made – just my additions added.

      The dealer appeared fair, understanding, and chilled. As well as being well priced – and even a ยฃ15/m service plan (which is dirt cheap).

      Go to comment
      2018/10/11 at 10:25 pm
  • From Jim on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    Hello Ryan and Mel

    I am hoping then that Rusty Lee would have kept the frame measurement detail for your vehicle.

    I can understand your reluctance to give me the measurements because as you say, situations differ but I am going to ask for exactly what you had done; the gas strut release lever etc. So hopefully, he would still have these dimensions recorded. I assume that the NV200 load area width wouldn’t differ across model variants.

    From your pictures and the known dimensions of the van, I can probably work out the width more or less. I would be planning to do as you did; i.e. position the bed, bolt temporarily to the van floor, then work the cupboard space out from that. It looks like the Offside wheel arch width and the leisure battery length subtracted from the width of the van in both the Nearside wheel arch for base width limit dimension and above bed width limit dimension.

    Maybe I will wait until I get the van and start doing some careful measuring from that point.

    You detailed pictures will also be very helpful.

    Anyway, thanks for your response.

    Kind regards
    Jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/07 at 7:00 pm
  • From Jim Monaghan on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    andy/ mel

    re the rock n roll bed from Rusty Lee

    I contacted Rusty and he gave the same price for the bed frame. I am still at the decision stage re buying an NV200

    Could you give me the dimensions of the frame? L x W x D, please. I would like to put that in place temporarily before then making cupboards etc

    If I opt for an NV200 I will be looking to build using your amazing conversion as a guide. The information you have freely shared is very helpful.
    Thanks
    Jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/07 at 1:08 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

      Hi Jim. I’m reluctant to give you frame measurements as every van build is unique and lots of decisions were made in order to get the bed frame we did – such as what loo, front loo access, loo accessible overnight, belted seat (bolts stick out), flat front, rear NS corner cut out, what the side shape is etc. Some of those decisions affected other elements, like seat height etc. In the NV its all a compromise. An exact copy may be perfect for you, or a tweak here and there may make it better for you. FYI – I built the wardrobe after the bed was test fitted. So not the answer you want I’m afraid! If you are local you can always have a look and see what is similar and what isn’t?

      Go to comment
      2018/10/07 at 2:07 pm
  • From Graham May on GPS POIs Hosted by us

    Hello
    Lots of poi information, but somewhat dated.
    Would you know if data canbe extracted from a poi map such as pubstopovers.
    If so would be great for satnav.
    Regards Graham

    Go to comment
    2018/09/26 at 10:00 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on GPS POIs Hosted by us

      Hi Graham.
      Yes, you are right these are dated. I stopped bothering with creating them when others seemed to take the batten but then they stopped. Also tech has moved on!
      Now, I subscribe to a couple of sources: campingcarinfos – and I use their app ; Wildcamping.co.uk forum (for pub spots, we use a new pub maybe every couple of months) – and archies campings.
      But so many commercial people doing it and overlaps, its a minefield!
      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/09/26 at 10:25 am
  • From Mike on Week 7 โ€“ Lake Garda to Home

    Great reading, ta very much. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Go to comment
    2018/09/25 at 7:34 pm
  • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

    Thank you. I was thinking either bare or through a conduit. I will also use one of them or something similar:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gas-Level-Indicator-Liquid-Level-Strip-/391488688924

    Go to comment
    2018/09/10 at 12:16 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

      No, those strips are just temperature to try and show the level. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152686612029 will go between the bottle and the regulator. This means if you turn the bottle off it will show the pressure. If needle drops in under an hour you have a leak!

      Go to comment
      2018/09/10 at 1:30 pm
      • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

        Hi Ryan,

        I noticed a significant drop during the first night. Needle dropped nearly 10%. However I can’t smell any leak not even in the gas locker. Any suggestions? I tested all the compression fittings and I can’t see anything wrong.

        Go to comment
        2018/10/01 at 7:45 am
        • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

          That is correct, especially as the bottle gets emptier. Esp at this time of year, temp drops overnight and need drops, as it is a pressure gauge and heat/pressure are related
          For leak detection which is what I was on about, leave bottle off and appliances isolated. Then the gauge will still be pressurised, and any big drop will show a leak between bottle and appliances (e.g. regulator & pipework). If drop is minimal after 24 hrs, turn each appliance isolator back on – and after 24hrs you can see if an appliance is leaking.
          But with bottle open you won’t spot a leak as the pressure will be topped back up by bottle (unless leak is major and bottle empties!)

          Go to comment
          2018/10/01 at 9:14 am
        • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

          With bottle “off” and appliances off?
          10% need drop in 24hrs *apparently* is nothing to worry about. On our old pro-installed system my needle did similar, and they said something like “if it drops in <1hr worry, but drops to zero overnight, don't worry". Mine drops a bit and drops to zero over a week or so (guessing, not checked).

          Go to comment
          2018/10/01 at 8:37 am
          • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

            Bottle is ‘on’ appliances are ‘off’
            They told me the needle might go down and up depending on the weather temperature.
            Thank you for your reply

            Go to comment
            2018/10/01 at 9:07 am
  • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

    Hi!! Hopefully my last question to finish the project. I can see your gas pipe is running through the cupboard. Did you use any kind of housing/trunking to protect the pipe? Is it going through the batteries ‘box’ or above it? Thank you!

    Go to comment
    2018/09/10 at 11:42 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

      No – think I used a grommet to get it through the locker, but then its just loose and fixed with clips, but is bare. It does go through the battery area and I see no problem with that – it isn’t in a place where it can be damaged. I would suggest a pressure dial on the gas bottle (easy way to know if there is a leak!) and also gas-drop vent in the locker and 50mm+ bottom lip – and seal locker with sealant so any escaped gas can’t “flow” anywhere hidden – except out through the floor.

      Go to comment
      2018/09/10 at 11:46 am
  • From Aras on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2

    Hi, great project! My question is, the kitchen cabinet surface looks like Westfalia style. The cabineta doors and the skin itself and I couldn’t see any pictures how you made it or did you purchase it as it is? Thank you.

    Go to comment
    2018/09/04 at 7:30 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2

      Hi
      All totally hand made.
      The top surface is really think formica (ebay) that is just spray-contact adhesive onto bare ply. the furniture board is from grasshopper lesire (I think) – voringer ply (or something like that!) – v expensve : ยฃ120 a sheet but well worth it. Bare sheets of lightweight stuff was ยฃ45 a sheet. The hinges/buttons/trim was either ebay or megavanmats or any other supplier. Its all off-the-shelf stuff. Some youtube videos I watched “how to” – but basically in scrap, make a door the size you want. then screw to more scrap and use as temoplate to make hole (I used 5mm bit) Then use that wood -with-hole as a temoplate on real board – clamp and be careful – and hey presto you have a cut out of a door and a hole (with 5mm gap for trim). Think about it. And practice ๐Ÿ™‚

      Go to comment
      2018/09/04 at 6:35 pm
  • From Camplife on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

    Hi, I am trying to find a place to earth the leisure battery. They are on the exactly same position as yours. Any ideas?

    Go to comment
    2018/09/01 at 12:10 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1618-e1464115643930.jpg for the earth block (silver thing with all the black wires). This is to earth all the switches, heater, sockets and everyting else. (I mostly ran 0v nback to here for things rather than bolting to van body)
      See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1622-e1464115589811.jpg shows the black wire going the same path as the +ve – so up to the D250. Then, as mentioned, the 0v is then taken from the D250 to the van bodywork via existing bolt.

      Go to comment
      2018/09/02 at 9:11 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      Hi
      Remember the entire metal chassis is at 0v – so you can earth anywhere. I planned to use the bolt from the load-tie down hook, but (FROM MEMORY) I decided to use a common earth off the CTEK D250S – as basically the engine +12v, the solar, and the mains charger all were near by, so I think I took a cable from the D250 0v and just ran that to an exiting nut that was in the recess. Sanded down the paint a little and crimped an “o” connector over the bolt. (Used 10mm cable). And the battery 0v ran up to the D250. I also took a cable to an earth block on the 12v electric control panel side and then earthed all “devices and cables” to that. Shortest route back.
      Hope some of the images make sense – may be easier to look at photo gallery around the CTEK charger and the wiring. I’m away at the moment on 4g so not able to look.
      Good luck
      .Then

      Go to comment
      2018/09/02 at 9:03 am
  • From angela carr on NV200: Van complete - final pics and video

    fab job but a little tight for my liking

    Go to comment
    2018/08/26 at 5:11 pm
  • From Alejandro Miranda on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)

    Thank you for such an incredible blog, Iยดm buying a NV 200 and I will follow your ideas step by step. Very helpful all the great details and thanks for sharing. I will use my NV to go surfing around Spain with my 14 year old kid.

    Best,

    Alex

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 9:23 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)

      Thanks Alex, and good luck! Steal what ideas you can, but do remember everyone is different ๐Ÿ™‚ You can get roofracks for the NV for your surfboards. Just put in the basics and enjoy to the max!

      Go to comment
      2018/08/18 at 10:27 am
  • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RACE-SPEC-Bucket-Seat-Slide-Rails-Runners-Glides-Corbeau-Cobra-Rally-Kit-Car/260979541387?hash=item3cc397c58b:g:64AAAMXQY8JRggPP which aren’t 450mm – but work well and has enough movement in the van. I’d say the runners were “perfect size” to be honest. No issues with them at all. I went for “race spec” as I wanted something strong as they are important lol.. The only pain is the width between runners as the provided handle doesn’t work and I had to make my own – and that was a pain.
    Best I could find……

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 7:59 am
  • From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    How long were the runners you used? I don’t seem to be able to find any matching JDR/seat runners on ebay. Most seat runners seem to be approx 340mm. The FASP swivel seat plate requires at least 450mm runner. Great write up btw, super useful!

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 12:21 am
  • From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    It’s difficult but not impossible to get hold of fine thread (1.25mm) M10 couter sunk bolts.

    https://www.belmetric.com/sf10x125x30-flat-head-p-6417.html?cPath=6_340_372_1070

    Go to comment
    2018/08/15 at 2:47 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

      Good spot!
      We really struggled here, I installed the seat with an engineering customer with most bolts known to man, and they didn’t have any, nor did a couple of specialist suppliers on the industrial estate. As we were doing it there and then we didn’t look online. But anyone who prepares in advance should check your link as they do look right (and rated at 10.9 which is important)
      Thanks for making me and others aware

      Go to comment
      2018/08/15 at 8:31 am
  • From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

    where about did you make the hole for the solar panel cables?

    Go to comment
    2018/07/13 at 11:21 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

      Hi.
      The panel is slightly raised on the brackets (but still lower than the skylight), and under there I have a waterproof box bonded to the roof, and the cables go into the rear side of that then into a hole through there inside the van. The hole is between the wooden bulkhead (where all the switches are) and the internal wardrobe wall – so it can’t be seen internally. Hope that helps

      Go to comment
      2018/07/15 at 7:07 am
      • From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

        Thank you very much. It’s very helpful. Finally I managed to find time to start this conversion. Do you know/remember the height of the aluminium brackets?

        Go to comment
        2018/07/18 at 4:10 pm
  • From Phil on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

    Many thanks for solving my inverter thoughts. You’ve just saved me money. I’ll put the kettle on the gas and buy an extra thick blanket

    Go to comment
    2018/06/14 at 10:21 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

      Glad to help. Still stand by the advice, though I did buy an inverter last week as my 12v laptop power supply failed and it was easier to get a small inverter to power the 240v power supply I had by chance lol – rather than seek out a 12v special one for this laptop which, in northern Norway was impossible.

      But kettle and the like – gas is the only viable option

      Go to comment
      2018/06/15 at 11:44 am
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    Bloomin’ predictive. Not chair but cabair. Not rattling but fettling. Doh!

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:12 pm
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    Not 105 years obvs, but 10.5. LOL

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:10 pm
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    You’ll never guess what Ryan, I’ve only been and gone and bought another Innovation! An ’08 Innovation 3, 110PS with 45k miles. I hope I’m going to enjoy sorting it out.

    It’s going back to the dealer on Monday as they sold it with 105 year old original tyres on the back, the chair blows baking hot, not chilled and the n/s audio speaker is silent.

    It had to have a new exhaust last week because it fell apart near home at the end of our first proving trip. Dealer paying.

    Good few other bits need rattling but for a 10 year old, it’s in fair nick.

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:08 pm
  • From Elina on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics

    You did a great job. These types of blogs guide and help me to enhance my knowledge.

    Go to comment
    2018/05/30 at 10:52 am
  • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen drawer and internal water tank filler

    Just an update. DO NOT copy the idea for the pull-out filler.
    Twice now, the blue filler pipe (Cak tanks) has split. Its not because its tight, but for some reason it splits where it moves (e.g. bends straight, then bends back). So it seems to be OK when static, even at tight angles, but when it moves it must weaken it quite a lot.
    Fortunately when testing everything and cleaning the tanks we noticed (not hard when loads of water pours into the cupboard).
    So now plan B – we now fill from the same filler, but fixed and accessible from the offside door. Good job we have 2x sliding doors! ๐Ÿ™‚

    Go to comment
    2018/05/07 at 9:11 am
  • From Michael Shelley on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics

    A credit to you, it’s very heartening to see that some people like to share knowledge and experience. That’s what this world should be about.
    Fabulous.

    Go to comment
    2018/03/31 at 10:54 am
  • From David Willdigg on About Us

    Love your blog and am most impressed with the professional feel to it. We are caravanners with 40 overseas trips behind us gained since we gratefully joined the “scrapheap” when our industries were privatized, more modest itineraries than yours but we have camped in 12 countries for 4 months a year and want to continue as long as possible. Couldn’t agree more with your sentiments about living for today.

    Go to comment
    2018/02/26 at 4:28 pm
  • From AL RICHARDSON on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    Hi can I be cheeky and ask the price you paid for for the pull out bed please?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/20 at 8:06 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

      The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <ยฃ1k - maybe ยฃ550-600 for frame, ยฃ350-400 for upholstery. TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.

      Go to comment
      2018/02/20 at 8:55 pm
  • From Rocky on NV200: More door lining

    Great job. You seem to have a plastic edging to the carpet around the windows etc. Do you mind telling me what that might be?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/19 at 9:50 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: More door lining

      Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
      Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….

      Go to comment
      2018/02/19 at 10:36 pm
      • From Rocky on NV200: More door lining

        I guessed that was what it was but was unsure as it must have taken a bit of cuttting to get a uniforn decent edge, especially on the tight corners. I have looked at different options as I think it is so difficult to get a neat carpet edge no matter how good my cutting skills are. I have some samples of thin rubber U edging on their way to me which “may” be a solution, I will let you know how I get on.

        Go to comment
        2018/02/21 at 1:33 am
        • From BLOG on NV200: More door lining

          Please do!
          Just FYI, I used rubber trim on other bits, and getting it to stick wasn’t great – my contact-adhesive just refused to stick to it. But, if you’ve got rubber trim that you can stuck, I reckon that’ll be 10x better – so looking forward to hearing. Good luck

          Go to comment
          2018/02/21 at 8:11 am
  • From Rocky on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

    Loving the blog.
    I am in process of converting my NV200 at the moment.
    Question for you….
    I notice that you seem to have fixed silver thermal insulation to all metal surfaces first around the windows and the top section of the sliding doors etc and then you fixed the carpet on top of that. Did you do this all over and if so what is the advantage over just fixing lining carpet to these areas?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/19 at 2:09 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

      Hi
      Good question.
      I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
      Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
      But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
      See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
      Hope this helps?

      Go to comment
      2018/02/19 at 2:22 pm
  • From Craig bray on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!

    Great helpful info. Only thing is, is this the same engine that is fitted to the galaxy from 2006?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/15 at 9:40 am
  • From Amy G on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed

    Hi Ryan and Mel, thnak you so much for your knowledgeable website! I’ve been told that if I don’t have a pop top (which I don’t, as I’m a keen stealth campervanner!) There won’t be enough room for adults to sit on the back seats comfortably, as there will only be 82cm from seat to roof. Do you find that, is that why you had the skylight? Thanks for any advice you’ve got

    Go to comment
    2018/02/01 at 2:47 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed

      Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room ๐Ÿ™‚
      But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
      1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
      2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
      3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.

      Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.

      We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.

      If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.

      Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.

      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/02/01 at 3:44 pm
  • From andrew inglefield on How to change water pump on 2L FWD Transit

    Hi,just done my waterpump and pas pump,i done it the easy way.Remove both headlights,front bumper,crossmember and front panel,all bolt on.Unclip radiator top,bottom and over flow hoses and swing radiator to the side and you are there,easily accessible.All done in the afternoon,dismantled and back together,might be worth trying.It worked for me,cheers for now.

    Go to comment
    2018/01/28 at 8:58 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: 240v Electrics

    Hi,

    Did you use conduit for the 12V wires? For example fan, lights?

    Thank you for your help

    Go to comment
    2017/12/13 at 3:37 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

    Hi, did you just paint the plywood silver? Thank you

    Go to comment
    2017/12/05 at 1:39 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

      No – it is special lightweight ply which is coated. MUCH straighter than normal ply and about 1/2 the weight. Expensive though – ยฃ45-50 for 8×4 sheet of plain stuff I used for non visible areas, and ยฃ120+ for the finished stuff. Has a very fine layer of covering.
      Available from specialist suppliers in self-build parts.

      Go to comment
      2017/12/05 at 2:07 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

    Hi, what’s the thickness of the battens you used around the wheels? I wasn’t sure if they are 5mm or 15mm. Did you put 11mm plywood on the top of them?

    Go to comment
    2017/11/13 at 8:25 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

      Not sure where you mean? the wheel arches? If so the arches are just the 7mm foam insulation and carpet straight over the wheel arch.
      We only battoned the floor as above – and really can’t remember the sizes.

      Go to comment
      2017/11/13 at 9:04 pm
      • From Daryl Harman on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

        Hi there. I’ve been following your blog keenly and am doing a conversation on my own NV. Question if I may, did you fill up the area behind the vent trims vents behind the wheel arches? Or is some sort of air exchange required down there?

        Daryl

        Go to comment
        2017/11/26 at 1:53 pm
        • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

          Hi
          I insulated the entire bit – BUT – I left the vent clear to the outside – so there is airflow there. Your enemy in a small van is condensation and having air movement is essential. Our roof light and side windows are also “vented” – so there is always air movement. Without it, when you breath, the air gets moist, and in an hour or two the inside of the van would be wet. Also you want CO and CO2 (and propane) to get out – so low vents are good. So – keep vents open ๐Ÿ™‚

          Go to comment
          2017/11/27 at 12:37 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

    Hi, where can I find the fluffy insulation?

    Go to comment
    2017/11/08 at 8:53 pm
    • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

      Is it this one http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-loft-insulation-l8m-w370mm-t100mm/197658_BQ.prd?ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700018862572466&utm_source=google_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PX_GSC_Building_Outdoor_Best_Sellers&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFwPqmhupG8YoJvpW0fL8clMkzgn_qy0bqpOMP5NJNs23AZnSctd3DsaAi5WEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJCKqu7ur9cCFfiE7QodlP8G9A ?

      Go to comment
      2017/11/08 at 8:57 pm
      • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

        Hi
        Not sure about the B&Q one – that may be a worth a try, but not sure. the normal loft stuff absorbs water. Took me a while to find it – but I bought this stuff from megavanmats http://www.megavanmats.com/apps/webstore/products/category/1231817?page=1

        Go to comment
        2017/11/08 at 9:12 pm
  • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

    I’m in the early stages of converting a combi – is there an easy way to remove the steps? The main one of interest is the offside one as I need to check to see if there’s water leaking under it – it may just be from the door handle (there was obvious water on the step and also in the clear plastic inside the door, which should have stopped it getting onto the step). Of course, it could just be from when I got in yesterday, but I don’t think it was raining that heavily.
    There are 2 obvious clips at the ends of the step but it’s still reluctant to move and I don’t want to force it. Any help greatfully received

    Go to comment
    2017/10/20 at 8:04 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

      Hi. The door handle is designed to leak, so you need to ensure there is a drainage channel. The step is obvious ๐Ÿ™‚ ON THE VAN VERSION there are only a few obvious bolts and then it pulls off. FROM MEMORY the step is clipped in by rubber-over-ball type fittings so is snug when fitted and needs coaxing off. Be brave! (Assuming it is the same of course!!) If you send me a photo I can say if it looks the same?

      Go to comment
      2017/10/20 at 11:46 pm
      • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

        Thanks. I’ll look again when I have time tomorrow and get some photos, but on entering the van this morning there was water on the step again and signs of water getting through along the seal at the top of the door. The seal seems to be intanct so unclear what’s going wrong. 7 days left on the warranty so will have to investigate soon

        Go to comment
        2017/10/21 at 10:03 am
        • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

          Ours is fine and doesn’t leak at the top, but our transit did briefly.
          The sliding door can be adjusted and “pulled in” at the top – so MAYBE yours is slightly out of adjustment. Maybe stick lots of strips of paper so they are trapped at the top by the seal when door is closed, and see if they pull out easily. If so seal is not compresed enough.
          The adjustment was on the “clips” where the door closes (on the transit).

          Go to comment
          2017/10/21 at 10:17 am
          • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

            Thanks. I’ve discovered that the slight leak was because the weather strip seal on the body where the door meets at the top was missing on the off-side. They’re looking for it but I’m not holding out much hope. The seem to be difficult to find online except from the US or Germany so I may need to go to a dealer.

            re. the plastic steps. For anyone wanting to remove them in the future – they’re fixed with plastic clips. Half of them can be seen if you get under the car and they can be freed with pliers whilst pulling up on the step at that location. Once one edge is done the other edge comes up reasonably easily.

            Go to comment
            2017/10/28 at 3:49 pm
  • From Terry on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

    What would you suggest if I wanted to use a slow cooker, is it possible to use an inverter ?

    Go to comment
    2017/10/11 at 3:00 pm
    • From BLOG on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

      Nope! No chance. A slow cooker will take 0.7kw over, say, 4 hours cooking time? 0.7kw @ 240v = 3A @ 240v. At 12v this would be 60A (!!).
      So 240AH over a 4 hr period. Ideally You should never use >50% of battery power, so you’d need 5x 100AH batteries for powering a slow cooker for 4hrs – and after than they’d be flat. You’d then struggle to charge them!
      For heating, cooking, gas is the best/only way in a campervan away from hookup or generator.

      Go to comment
      2017/10/11 at 3:07 pm
  • From Prague to Austria – Do Your Dream!! on Austria to Home

    […] Austria to Home […]

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    2017/09/16 at 4:18 pm
  • From Germany & Czech Republic Trip index – Do Your Dream!! on Leipzig to Colditz

    […] Part Two – Leipzig to Colditz (Germany) […]

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    2017/09/16 at 4:18 pm
  • From Austria to Home – Do Your Dream!! on Germany & Czech Republic Trip index

    […] Germany & Czech Republic Trip index […]

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    2017/09/16 at 4:17 pm
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