• From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds

    Unfortunately I can’t find the thermal blinds for the windscreen anywhere…
    Do you know if they still sell them?

    Go to comment
    2018/10/12 at 4:00 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Curtains and blinds

      No idea – they don’t appear on my search any more. I bought from https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gll2design – so maybe contact them direct?
      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/10/12 at 5:05 pm
      • From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds

        I ordered from here: https://www.freesleep.es/gb/insulating-thermal-obscuration-internal/156-aislantes-termicos-9-capas-nissan-nv200.html#/25-insulators-cabin

        They seem alright but I have not tested them yet.

        Go to comment
        2018/10/31 at 10:53 am
  • From Jim on NV200: Fitting skylight

    yes sounds OK. I think I will ask about the monthly service plan myself. Thanks again

    Go to comment
    2018/10/12 at 12:58 pm
  • From JIm on NV200: Fitting skylight

    Ryan /Mel

    I see lots of van conversions removing a section of the roof beam to allow a squarish vent to be fitted.

    One thing that concerns me is the purpose of the roof beam is perhaps there to provide van shell rigidity.

    Having seen so many examples of it done I guess it is OK to do this, but would be grateful for your comments on that.

    I also know that some manufacturers (or their approved dealers invalidate warranties. A major national UK dealership once told me that if I was to repair a faulty window motor regulator in a Renault Scenic myself, that they would not honour the warranty on the car…. but I think they were just being “jobs worths”

    Like you, I am probably going to buy a new NV200 van.

    jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/11 at 10:11 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting skylight

      The roof struts in the NV do not appear structural – they are more anti-rattle and to give roof some ridigity if you stand on it. I was also worried, but no problem. They are just glued on – so I cut through the bar and then the glue. No issues. Its not for roll over protection or anything like that

      The dealer said “anything you touch may not be covered by warrantee” which is fair enough. I explained what I was doing and they said “well if you cut a hole and it rusts its not going to be covered”. However my build deliberately didn’t touch any of the van drivetrain – apart from the diesel pick up and the battery – but no “changes” made – just my additions added.

      The dealer appeared fair, understanding, and chilled. As well as being well priced – and even a ยฃ15/m service plan (which is dirt cheap).

      Go to comment
      2018/10/11 at 10:25 pm
  • From Jim on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    Hello Ryan and Mel

    I am hoping then that Rusty Lee would have kept the frame measurement detail for your vehicle.

    I can understand your reluctance to give me the measurements because as you say, situations differ but I am going to ask for exactly what you had done; the gas strut release lever etc. So hopefully, he would still have these dimensions recorded. I assume that the NV200 load area width wouldn’t differ across model variants.

    From your pictures and the known dimensions of the van, I can probably work out the width more or less. I would be planning to do as you did; i.e. position the bed, bolt temporarily to the van floor, then work the cupboard space out from that. It looks like the Offside wheel arch width and the leisure battery length subtracted from the width of the van in both the Nearside wheel arch for base width limit dimension and above bed width limit dimension.

    Maybe I will wait until I get the van and start doing some careful measuring from that point.

    You detailed pictures will also be very helpful.

    Anyway, thanks for your response.

    Kind regards
    Jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/07 at 7:00 pm
  • From Jim Monaghan on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    andy/ mel

    re the rock n roll bed from Rusty Lee

    I contacted Rusty and he gave the same price for the bed frame. I am still at the decision stage re buying an NV200

    Could you give me the dimensions of the frame? L x W x D, please. I would like to put that in place temporarily before then making cupboards etc

    If I opt for an NV200 I will be looking to build using your amazing conversion as a guide. The information you have freely shared is very helpful.
    Thanks
    Jim

    Go to comment
    2018/10/07 at 1:08 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

      Hi Jim. I’m reluctant to give you frame measurements as every van build is unique and lots of decisions were made in order to get the bed frame we did – such as what loo, front loo access, loo accessible overnight, belted seat (bolts stick out), flat front, rear NS corner cut out, what the side shape is etc. Some of those decisions affected other elements, like seat height etc. In the NV its all a compromise. An exact copy may be perfect for you, or a tweak here and there may make it better for you. FYI – I built the wardrobe after the bed was test fitted. So not the answer you want I’m afraid! If you are local you can always have a look and see what is similar and what isn’t?

      Go to comment
      2018/10/07 at 2:07 pm
  • From Graham May on GPS POIs Hosted by us

    Hello
    Lots of poi information, but somewhat dated.
    Would you know if data canbe extracted from a poi map such as pubstopovers.
    If so would be great for satnav.
    Regards Graham

    Go to comment
    2018/09/26 at 10:00 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on GPS POIs Hosted by us

      Hi Graham.
      Yes, you are right these are dated. I stopped bothering with creating them when others seemed to take the batten but then they stopped. Also tech has moved on!
      Now, I subscribe to a couple of sources: campingcarinfos – and I use their app ; Wildcamping.co.uk forum (for pub spots, we use a new pub maybe every couple of months) – and archies campings.
      But so many commercial people doing it and overlaps, its a minefield!
      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/09/26 at 10:25 am
  • From Mike on Week 7 โ€“ Lake Garda to Home

    Great reading, ta very much. ๐Ÿ˜€

    Go to comment
    2018/09/25 at 7:34 pm
  • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

    Thank you. I was thinking either bare or through a conduit. I will also use one of them or something similar:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gas-Level-Indicator-Liquid-Level-Strip-/391488688924

    Go to comment
    2018/09/10 at 12:16 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

      No, those strips are just temperature to try and show the level. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152686612029 will go between the bottle and the regulator. This means if you turn the bottle off it will show the pressure. If needle drops in under an hour you have a leak!

      Go to comment
      2018/09/10 at 1:30 pm
      • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

        Hi Ryan,

        I noticed a significant drop during the first night. Needle dropped nearly 10%. However I can’t smell any leak not even in the gas locker. Any suggestions? I tested all the compression fittings and I can’t see anything wrong.

        Go to comment
        2018/10/01 at 7:45 am
        • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

          That is correct, especially as the bottle gets emptier. Esp at this time of year, temp drops overnight and need drops, as it is a pressure gauge and heat/pressure are related
          For leak detection which is what I was on about, leave bottle off and appliances isolated. Then the gauge will still be pressurised, and any big drop will show a leak between bottle and appliances (e.g. regulator & pipework). If drop is minimal after 24 hrs, turn each appliance isolator back on – and after 24hrs you can see if an appliance is leaking.
          But with bottle open you won’t spot a leak as the pressure will be topped back up by bottle (unless leak is major and bottle empties!)

          Go to comment
          2018/10/01 at 9:14 am
        • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

          With bottle “off” and appliances off?
          10% need drop in 24hrs *apparently* is nothing to worry about. On our old pro-installed system my needle did similar, and they said something like “if it drops in <1hr worry, but drops to zero overnight, don't worry". Mine drops a bit and drops to zero over a week or so (guessing, not checked).

          Go to comment
          2018/10/01 at 8:37 am
          • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

            Bottle is ‘on’ appliances are ‘off’
            They told me the needle might go down and up depending on the weather temperature.
            Thank you for your reply

            Go to comment
            2018/10/01 at 9:07 am
  • From MQ on NV200: Gas locker

    Hi!! Hopefully my last question to finish the project. I can see your gas pipe is running through the cupboard. Did you use any kind of housing/trunking to protect the pipe? Is it going through the batteries ‘box’ or above it? Thank you!

    Go to comment
    2018/09/10 at 11:42 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker

      No – think I used a grommet to get it through the locker, but then its just loose and fixed with clips, but is bare. It does go through the battery area and I see no problem with that – it isn’t in a place where it can be damaged. I would suggest a pressure dial on the gas bottle (easy way to know if there is a leak!) and also gas-drop vent in the locker and 50mm+ bottom lip – and seal locker with sealant so any escaped gas can’t “flow” anywhere hidden – except out through the floor.

      Go to comment
      2018/09/10 at 11:46 am
  • From Aras on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2

    Hi, great project! My question is, the kitchen cabinet surface looks like Westfalia style. The cabineta doors and the skin itself and I couldn’t see any pictures how you made it or did you purchase it as it is? Thank you.

    Go to comment
    2018/09/04 at 7:30 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2

      Hi
      All totally hand made.
      The top surface is really think formica (ebay) that is just spray-contact adhesive onto bare ply. the furniture board is from grasshopper lesire (I think) – voringer ply (or something like that!) – v expensve : ยฃ120 a sheet but well worth it. Bare sheets of lightweight stuff was ยฃ45 a sheet. The hinges/buttons/trim was either ebay or megavanmats or any other supplier. Its all off-the-shelf stuff. Some youtube videos I watched “how to” – but basically in scrap, make a door the size you want. then screw to more scrap and use as temoplate to make hole (I used 5mm bit) Then use that wood -with-hole as a temoplate on real board – clamp and be careful – and hey presto you have a cut out of a door and a hole (with 5mm gap for trim). Think about it. And practice ๐Ÿ™‚

      Go to comment
      2018/09/04 at 6:35 pm
  • From Camplife on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

    Hi, I am trying to find a place to earth the leisure battery. They are on the exactly same position as yours. Any ideas?

    Go to comment
    2018/09/01 at 12:10 pm
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1618-e1464115643930.jpg for the earth block (silver thing with all the black wires). This is to earth all the switches, heater, sockets and everyting else. (I mostly ran 0v nback to here for things rather than bolting to van body)
      See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1622-e1464115589811.jpg shows the black wire going the same path as the +ve – so up to the D250. Then, as mentioned, the 0v is then taken from the D250 to the van bodywork via existing bolt.

      Go to comment
      2018/09/02 at 9:11 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear

      Hi
      Remember the entire metal chassis is at 0v – so you can earth anywhere. I planned to use the bolt from the load-tie down hook, but (FROM MEMORY) I decided to use a common earth off the CTEK D250S – as basically the engine +12v, the solar, and the mains charger all were near by, so I think I took a cable from the D250 0v and just ran that to an exiting nut that was in the recess. Sanded down the paint a little and crimped an “o” connector over the bolt. (Used 10mm cable). And the battery 0v ran up to the D250. I also took a cable to an earth block on the 12v electric control panel side and then earthed all “devices and cables” to that. Shortest route back.
      Hope some of the images make sense – may be easier to look at photo gallery around the CTEK charger and the wiring. I’m away at the moment on 4g so not able to look.
      Good luck
      .Then

      Go to comment
      2018/09/02 at 9:03 am
  • From angela carr on NV200: Van complete - final pics and video

    fab job but a little tight for my liking

    Go to comment
    2018/08/26 at 5:11 pm
  • From Alejandro Miranda on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)

    Thank you for such an incredible blog, Iยดm buying a NV 200 and I will follow your ideas step by step. Very helpful all the great details and thanks for sharing. I will use my NV to go surfing around Spain with my 14 year old kid.

    Best,

    Alex

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 9:23 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)

      Thanks Alex, and good luck! Steal what ideas you can, but do remember everyone is different ๐Ÿ™‚ You can get roofracks for the NV for your surfboards. Just put in the basics and enjoy to the max!

      Go to comment
      2018/08/18 at 10:27 am
  • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RACE-SPEC-Bucket-Seat-Slide-Rails-Runners-Glides-Corbeau-Cobra-Rally-Kit-Car/260979541387?hash=item3cc397c58b:g:64AAAMXQY8JRggPP which aren’t 450mm – but work well and has enough movement in the van. I’d say the runners were “perfect size” to be honest. No issues with them at all. I went for “race spec” as I wanted something strong as they are important lol.. The only pain is the width between runners as the provided handle doesn’t work and I had to make my own – and that was a pain.
    Best I could find……

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 7:59 am
  • From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    How long were the runners you used? I don’t seem to be able to find any matching JDR/seat runners on ebay. Most seat runners seem to be approx 340mm. The FASP swivel seat plate requires at least 450mm runner. Great write up btw, super useful!

    Go to comment
    2018/08/18 at 12:21 am
  • From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    It’s difficult but not impossible to get hold of fine thread (1.25mm) M10 couter sunk bolts.

    https://www.belmetric.com/sf10x125x30-flat-head-p-6417.html?cPath=6_340_372_1070

    Go to comment
    2018/08/15 at 2:47 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

      Good spot!
      We really struggled here, I installed the seat with an engineering customer with most bolts known to man, and they didn’t have any, nor did a couple of specialist suppliers on the industrial estate. As we were doing it there and then we didn’t look online. But anyone who prepares in advance should check your link as they do look right (and rated at 10.9 which is important)
      Thanks for making me and others aware

      Go to comment
      2018/08/15 at 8:31 am
  • From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

    where about did you make the hole for the solar panel cables?

    Go to comment
    2018/07/13 at 11:21 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

      Hi.
      The panel is slightly raised on the brackets (but still lower than the skylight), and under there I have a waterproof box bonded to the roof, and the cables go into the rear side of that then into a hole through there inside the van. The hole is between the wooden bulkhead (where all the switches are) and the internal wardrobe wall – so it can’t be seen internally. Hope that helps

      Go to comment
      2018/07/15 at 7:07 am
      • From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels

        Thank you very much. It’s very helpful. Finally I managed to find time to start this conversion. Do you know/remember the height of the aluminium brackets?

        Go to comment
        2018/07/18 at 4:10 pm
  • From Phil on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

    Many thanks for solving my inverter thoughts. You’ve just saved me money. I’ll put the kettle on the gas and buy an extra thick blanket

    Go to comment
    2018/06/14 at 10:21 am
    • From Ryan and Mel on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

      Glad to help. Still stand by the advice, though I did buy an inverter last week as my 12v laptop power supply failed and it was easier to get a small inverter to power the 240v power supply I had by chance lol – rather than seek out a 12v special one for this laptop which, in northern Norway was impossible.

      But kettle and the like – gas is the only viable option

      Go to comment
      2018/06/15 at 11:44 am
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    Bloomin’ predictive. Not chair but cabair. Not rattling but fettling. Doh!

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:12 pm
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    Not 105 years obvs, but 10.5. LOL

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:10 pm
  • From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips

    You’ll never guess what Ryan, I’ve only been and gone and bought another Innovation! An ’08 Innovation 3, 110PS with 45k miles. I hope I’m going to enjoy sorting it out.

    It’s going back to the dealer on Monday as they sold it with 105 year old original tyres on the back, the chair blows baking hot, not chilled and the n/s audio speaker is silent.

    It had to have a new exhaust last week because it fell apart near home at the end of our first proving trip. Dealer paying.

    Good few other bits need rattling but for a 10 year old, it’s in fair nick.

    Go to comment
    2018/06/09 at 7:08 pm
  • From Elina on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics

    You did a great job. These types of blogs guide and help me to enhance my knowledge.

    Go to comment
    2018/05/30 at 10:52 am
  • From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen drawer and internal water tank filler

    Just an update. DO NOT copy the idea for the pull-out filler.
    Twice now, the blue filler pipe (Cak tanks) has split. Its not because its tight, but for some reason it splits where it moves (e.g. bends straight, then bends back). So it seems to be OK when static, even at tight angles, but when it moves it must weaken it quite a lot.
    Fortunately when testing everything and cleaning the tanks we noticed (not hard when loads of water pours into the cupboard).
    So now plan B – we now fill from the same filler, but fixed and accessible from the offside door. Good job we have 2x sliding doors! ๐Ÿ™‚

    Go to comment
    2018/05/07 at 9:11 am
  • From Michael Shelley on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics

    A credit to you, it’s very heartening to see that some people like to share knowledge and experience. That’s what this world should be about.
    Fabulous.

    Go to comment
    2018/03/31 at 10:54 am
  • From David Willdigg on About Us

    Love your blog and am most impressed with the professional feel to it. We are caravanners with 40 overseas trips behind us gained since we gratefully joined the “scrapheap” when our industries were privatized, more modest itineraries than yours but we have camped in 12 countries for 4 months a year and want to continue as long as possible. Couldn’t agree more with your sentiments about living for today.

    Go to comment
    2018/02/26 at 4:28 pm
  • From AL RICHARDSON on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

    Hi can I be cheeky and ask the price you paid for for the pull out bed please?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/20 at 8:06 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!

      The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <ยฃ1k - maybe ยฃ550-600 for frame, ยฃ350-400 for upholstery. TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.

      Go to comment
      2018/02/20 at 8:55 pm
  • From Rocky on NV200: More door lining

    Great job. You seem to have a plastic edging to the carpet around the windows etc. Do you mind telling me what that might be?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/19 at 9:50 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: More door lining

      Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
      Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….

      Go to comment
      2018/02/19 at 10:36 pm
      • From Rocky on NV200: More door lining

        I guessed that was what it was but was unsure as it must have taken a bit of cuttting to get a uniforn decent edge, especially on the tight corners. I have looked at different options as I think it is so difficult to get a neat carpet edge no matter how good my cutting skills are. I have some samples of thin rubber U edging on their way to me which “may” be a solution, I will let you know how I get on.

        Go to comment
        2018/02/21 at 1:33 am
        • From BLOG on NV200: More door lining

          Please do!
          Just FYI, I used rubber trim on other bits, and getting it to stick wasn’t great – my contact-adhesive just refused to stick to it. But, if you’ve got rubber trim that you can stuck, I reckon that’ll be 10x better – so looking forward to hearing. Good luck

          Go to comment
          2018/02/21 at 8:11 am
  • From Rocky on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

    Loving the blog.
    I am in process of converting my NV200 at the moment.
    Question for you….
    I notice that you seem to have fixed silver thermal insulation to all metal surfaces first around the windows and the top section of the sliding doors etc and then you fixed the carpet on top of that. Did you do this all over and if so what is the advantage over just fixing lining carpet to these areas?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/19 at 2:09 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

      Hi
      Good question.
      I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
      Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
      But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
      See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
      Hope this helps?

      Go to comment
      2018/02/19 at 2:22 pm
  • From Craig bray on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!

    Great helpful info. Only thing is, is this the same engine that is fitted to the galaxy from 2006?

    Go to comment
    2018/02/15 at 9:40 am
  • From Amy G on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed

    Hi Ryan and Mel, thnak you so much for your knowledgeable website! I’ve been told that if I don’t have a pop top (which I don’t, as I’m a keen stealth campervanner!) There won’t be enough room for adults to sit on the back seats comfortably, as there will only be 82cm from seat to roof. Do you find that, is that why you had the skylight? Thanks for any advice you’ve got

    Go to comment
    2018/02/01 at 2:47 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed

      Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room ๐Ÿ™‚
      But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
      1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
      2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
      3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.

      Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.

      We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.

      If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.

      Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.

      Good luck

      Go to comment
      2018/02/01 at 3:44 pm
  • From andrew inglefield on How to change water pump on 2L FWD Transit

    Hi,just done my waterpump and pas pump,i done it the easy way.Remove both headlights,front bumper,crossmember and front panel,all bolt on.Unclip radiator top,bottom and over flow hoses and swing radiator to the side and you are there,easily accessible.All done in the afternoon,dismantled and back together,might be worth trying.It worked for me,cheers for now.

    Go to comment
    2018/01/28 at 8:58 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: 240v Electrics

    Hi,

    Did you use conduit for the 12V wires? For example fan, lights?

    Thank you for your help

    Go to comment
    2017/12/13 at 3:37 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

    Hi, did you just paint the plywood silver? Thank you

    Go to comment
    2017/12/05 at 1:39 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1

      No – it is special lightweight ply which is coated. MUCH straighter than normal ply and about 1/2 the weight. Expensive though – ยฃ45-50 for 8×4 sheet of plain stuff I used for non visible areas, and ยฃ120+ for the finished stuff. Has a very fine layer of covering.
      Available from specialist suppliers in self-build parts.

      Go to comment
      2017/12/05 at 2:07 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

    Hi, what’s the thickness of the battens you used around the wheels? I wasn’t sure if they are 5mm or 15mm. Did you put 11mm plywood on the top of them?

    Go to comment
    2017/11/13 at 8:25 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

      Not sure where you mean? the wheel arches? If so the arches are just the 7mm foam insulation and carpet straight over the wheel arch.
      We only battoned the floor as above – and really can’t remember the sizes.

      Go to comment
      2017/11/13 at 9:04 pm
      • From Daryl Harman on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

        Hi there. I’ve been following your blog keenly and am doing a conversation on my own NV. Question if I may, did you fill up the area behind the vent trims vents behind the wheel arches? Or is some sort of air exchange required down there?

        Daryl

        Go to comment
        2017/11/26 at 1:53 pm
        • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

          Hi
          I insulated the entire bit – BUT – I left the vent clear to the outside – so there is airflow there. Your enemy in a small van is condensation and having air movement is essential. Our roof light and side windows are also “vented” – so there is always air movement. Without it, when you breath, the air gets moist, and in an hour or two the inside of the van would be wet. Also you want CO and CO2 (and propane) to get out – so low vents are good. So – keep vents open ๐Ÿ™‚

          Go to comment
          2017/11/27 at 12:37 pm
  • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

    Hi, where can I find the fluffy insulation?

    Go to comment
    2017/11/08 at 8:53 pm
    • From Nv200 on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

      Is it this one http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-loft-insulation-l8m-w370mm-t100mm/197658_BQ.prd?ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700018862572466&utm_source=google_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PX_GSC_Building_Outdoor_Best_Sellers&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFwPqmhupG8YoJvpW0fL8clMkzgn_qy0bqpOMP5NJNs23AZnSctd3DsaAi5WEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJCKqu7ur9cCFfiE7QodlP8G9A ?

      Go to comment
      2017/11/08 at 8:57 pm
      • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space

        Hi
        Not sure about the B&Q one – that may be a worth a try, but not sure. the normal loft stuff absorbs water. Took me a while to find it – but I bought this stuff from megavanmats http://www.megavanmats.com/apps/webstore/products/category/1231817?page=1

        Go to comment
        2017/11/08 at 9:12 pm
  • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

    I’m in the early stages of converting a combi – is there an easy way to remove the steps? The main one of interest is the offside one as I need to check to see if there’s water leaking under it – it may just be from the door handle (there was obvious water on the step and also in the clear plastic inside the door, which should have stopped it getting onto the step). Of course, it could just be from when I got in yesterday, but I don’t think it was raining that heavily.
    There are 2 obvious clips at the ends of the step but it’s still reluctant to move and I don’t want to force it. Any help greatfully received

    Go to comment
    2017/10/20 at 8:04 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

      Hi. The door handle is designed to leak, so you need to ensure there is a drainage channel. The step is obvious ๐Ÿ™‚ ON THE VAN VERSION there are only a few obvious bolts and then it pulls off. FROM MEMORY the step is clipped in by rubber-over-ball type fittings so is snug when fitted and needs coaxing off. Be brave! (Assuming it is the same of course!!) If you send me a photo I can say if it looks the same?

      Go to comment
      2017/10/20 at 11:46 pm
      • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

        Thanks. I’ll look again when I have time tomorrow and get some photos, but on entering the van this morning there was water on the step again and signs of water getting through along the seal at the top of the door. The seal seems to be intanct so unclear what’s going wrong. 7 days left on the warranty so will have to investigate soon

        Go to comment
        2017/10/21 at 10:03 am
        • From BLOG on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

          Ours is fine and doesn’t leak at the top, but our transit did briefly.
          The sliding door can be adjusted and “pulled in” at the top – so MAYBE yours is slightly out of adjustment. Maybe stick lots of strips of paper so they are trapped at the top by the seal when door is closed, and see if they pull out easily. If so seal is not compresed enough.
          The adjustment was on the “clips” where the door closes (on the transit).

          Go to comment
          2017/10/21 at 10:17 am
          • From Duncan on NV200: Insulating and installing Floor

            Thanks. I’ve discovered that the slight leak was because the weather strip seal on the body where the door meets at the top was missing on the off-side. They’re looking for it but I’m not holding out much hope. The seem to be difficult to find online except from the US or Germany so I may need to go to a dealer.

            re. the plastic steps. For anyone wanting to remove them in the future – they’re fixed with plastic clips. Half of them can be seen if you get under the car and they can be freed with pliers whilst pulling up on the step at that location. Once one edge is done the other edge comes up reasonably easily.

            Go to comment
            2017/10/28 at 3:49 pm
  • From Terry on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

    What would you suggest if I wanted to use a slow cooker, is it possible to use an inverter ?

    Go to comment
    2017/10/11 at 3:00 pm
    • From BLOG on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?

      Nope! No chance. A slow cooker will take 0.7kw over, say, 4 hours cooking time? 0.7kw @ 240v = 3A @ 240v. At 12v this would be 60A (!!).
      So 240AH over a 4 hr period. Ideally You should never use >50% of battery power, so you’d need 5x 100AH batteries for powering a slow cooker for 4hrs – and after than they’d be flat. You’d then struggle to charge them!
      For heating, cooking, gas is the best/only way in a campervan away from hookup or generator.

      Go to comment
      2017/10/11 at 3:07 pm
  • From Prague to Austria – Do Your Dream!! on Austria to Home

    […] Austria to Home […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 4:18 pm
  • From Germany & Czech Republic Trip index – Do Your Dream!! on Leipzig to Colditz

    […] Part Two – Leipzig to Colditz (Germany) […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 4:18 pm
  • From Austria to Home – Do Your Dream!! on Germany & Czech Republic Trip index

    […] Germany & Czech Republic Trip index […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 4:17 pm
  • From Czech Republic Border to Prague – Do Your Dream!! on Germany & Czech Republic Trip index

    […] Germany & Czech Republic Trip index […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 3:58 pm
  • From Prague to Austria – Do Your Dream!! on Germany & Czech Republic Trip index

    […] Germany & Czech Republic Trip index […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 3:57 pm
  • From Colditz to the Czech Republic Border – Do Your Dream!! on Czech Republic Border to Prague

    […] Czech Republic Border to Prague […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 3:46 pm
  • From Germany & Czech Republic Trip index – Do Your Dream!! on Home to Leipzig - 2017 Van Trip

    […] Home to Leipzig – 2017 Van Trip […]

    Go to comment
    2017/09/16 at 3:45 pm
  • From Matt on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!

    Excellent write-up !!! thanks, loads of great info.
    Just one thing ,where you mentioned the P0235 code it seems to be unfinished ?
    thanks.

    Go to comment
    2017/08/25 at 2:00 pm
  • From David Irvine on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!

    Hi can u help we got a pick up 2.4 before the turbo went on last week it was onlly doing 40 mph then the turbo pack in we put a turbo on yeaster day and it still doing 40 can y help us please

    Go to comment
    2017/08/23 at 11:55 am
  • From Evan on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

    Do you know if it would be possible to fit the seat swivel without the sliders?

    Thanks,
    Evan

    Go to comment
    2017/08/20 at 10:59 pm
    • From BLOG on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat

      Hmmm. Probably, yes, but I’d not recommend it. for the seat to swivel it needs to be in a particular “place” front to back. If you fixed it there, its not optimum for either sitting in as a passenger, or as a habitation seat. It needs to be “towards the back” for the passenger to have room when driving, and “towards the front of the van” when rotated for the habitation to have room (and to make room for loo). Youd also need to open the door to rotate which you don’t with sliders.

      So yes, probably, but I wouldn’t.

      Why without runners? They are cheap and don’t actually alter the height of the seat compared to how it is made – even with the turntable?

      Go to comment
      2017/08/21 at 3:24 pm
  • From Lily on REVIEW: C-Tek D250s smart battery charger

    hey! When you installed the solar panel and all this energy system, the idea was to use this only for the gadgets in the van or also for A/C?
    I just recently started to research what to do with my cargo van and want to add seats and a/c, some led lights and so.

    Go to comment
    2017/08/20 at 7:32 pm
    • From BLOG on REVIEW: C-Tek D250s smart battery charger

      A/C as in “air conditioning”? If so – no – 12v / solar/ battery will not run air con – or if it does, not for very long. Habitation air con is too much current for that – it needs mains hookup. You also can’t use the engine air con without the engine running.

      If you mean A/C as in “mains power” – then the CTEK only does solar/engine/habitation battery – and that’s enough – the solar keeps the batteries full even when running the compressor fridge. Even on campsites where we have 240v – we don’t plug in. (We have separate 240v-12v charger system – see blog).

      Everything runs on 12v, lights, pump, laptops, tech, etc – no need for 240v unless, say, camping over winter and need constant heating where a 240v heater may be needed?

      Go to comment
      2017/08/21 at 3:28 pm
  • From tdk on Week 5 - Berlin to Dresden to Harz Mountains

    The link at the bottom of week 4 pointing to week 5 is broken,

    Go to comment
    2017/08/18 at 8:04 pm
  • From Thomas on NV200: Fitting fresh water tank

    Hello,

    which is the contenance of the water tanks ?

    Thanks for your answer.

    Thomas

    Go to comment
    2017/08/10 at 11:32 am
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