Vietnam Costs and Review

See our general tip page here.  Note the costs here do not include external flights, vaccines and insurance etc – this will be detailed at the end of the trip.

Overall

Vietnam was a bit of a culture shock than Thailand or Malaysia, and getting to Hanoi first was jumping in the deep end!  Vietnam grew on us, and the Mekong area was beautiful.  We had no real issues though we didn’t take many cheap or public transport options as we did here some horror stories.  Whereas we spent a bit more, and cheated a bit, but had a chilled time.

We liked Vietnam – a lot – but not as much as Southern Thailand.  We think this is because Vietnam is harder than Thailand – buying food can be harder; transport can be harder; and you are always afraid of a scam.  That said, nothing was impossible and we made it through and enjoyed it unscathed. 

Budget

Our daily spend of £46 is surprisingly good – especially when we took 2 internal flights; always had pretty good (but budget) hotels; and went on a fair few organised trips.  On this amount it is possible to do things well and avoid the hassles. 

With trains/busses and DIY you could do it cheaper, and there is also much cheaper accommodation than we bought, but too much less than we paid and it gets dire quickly! 

Security

We were concerned about security in Vietnam and the internet is full of horror stories, scams, theft etc.  And to be fair, it is true – we’ve heard first hand stories about such problems.  We were also (almost) scammed in Hannoi by a street vendor but nothing serious and all was fine.

We would also suggest you sort out airport pickup via your hotel for stress free airport travel – we were picked up easily, even when flight late, and as pre-paid it was perfect. 

Keeping small change (notes) loose is a good idea so you don’t get you wallet out.  Be wary of having “stuff” on display, or things dangling, as there are so many mopeds snatch-crime would be easy to do and hard to catch.

For us, we’d say we had no security issues – though we stayed alert throughout.

Useful facts:-

• ATMS:  ATMs everywhere, but best to use something like ANZ bank as many banks restrict you to 2,00,000 VND at a time – ANZ allows up to 20,000,000 (pending your card). 
• Currency:  Most things priced in VND, but tourist things like hotels and trips in USD.  You can pay these in VND (21,000 per $) or USD.  Everything else is VND. No USD needed at all.
• Landry:  Harder to come by, but all hotels did it for around 15,000-30,000 per kg
• 7/11:  None – local shops only, but water etc similar price everywhere.
• Transport:  We heard horror stories about public busses:  Breakdowns; long delays waiting to fill; stopping before destination etc.  So we didn’t use them.  We didn’t use train either.  We used:  Sinhtourist bus; taxi; tuktuk; boat; ferry; rowing boat
• Chemists:  Few and far between – best to stock up on essentials before you get there.
• Food:  Street food more of a challenge – not much in English.  Cafes etc vary but in tourest areas all OK
• Language:  Knowing Yes, No helps – but English ok for normal stuff. 
• Power:  mains plugs everywhere so charging stuff is trivial (socket adapter may be needed, and of course make sure charger is 110/240v!). 
• Internet:  Wifi available in every guesthouse we used and in many bars/cafes.  Internet cafes and PCs to borrow also available free/cheap.
• Toilets:  Western style in all guest houses and in most “good” public places, there may only be one in a row so look.  Worth carrying toilet paper though seldom needed.

Stuff we took and didn’t use

(see our packing list here)

• Towels – they were provided by every guesthouse, even special beach towels
• Mozzie net – only needed in one place, and it was already provided.
• Loads of clothes – you only need 4-5 sets of undies – laundry is so trivial to do you do not need to carry as much as us.
• Spare batteries for stuff – power so available we kept things charged
• Main padlock – all guest houses had normal locks

Things we’d change

We’d possibly spend some time in Sapa which we skipped due to weather/season, and we should have gone to Dalat and Nha Trang.  We should have looked at Sinhtourist night bus from Hue/Hoi An rather than flying.   Possibly more time in Mekong area, but no regrets there.

See trip index here,Vietnam index here and additional Vietnam photos here

After new year we carried on exploring Ho Chi Minh – but just as the , most things are closed at new year.  So sadly, for 2 days most of the shops were closed and the typically buzzing atmosphere wasn’t here.  We did manage to have some nice long walks through dark alleys and along the river in relative calm though!  And fortunately there were open restaurants near us where we did have a couple of superb meals.  We managed to buy some stuff from the markets and negotiated hard for a change!  For us, HCMC didn’t really have as much to do or see as Hanoi and seemed to lack a bit of the rough character that made Hanoi unique. 

From Ho Chi Minh you really need to go on a trip to the Mekong Delta, and considering our next stop is Cambodia, it is possible to get up the Mekong direct to Phnom Penh in about 3 days or so, slightly less if you get a bus and cut some out.  “REAL” backpackers will tell you how it can be done in a DIY style, getting public busses, negotiating direct with a boatsman, then finding places to stay if/when you get to your hotel.  Sounds exciting, but so does an organised trip where all the links are managed for you – so similar without the stress.  Yes we’ll be herded like animals, and we’ll be taken to tourist tacky shops where we’ll be encouraged to by tat, but also we’ll be seeing and being taken to places we’d never find.  After googling, reading poor reviews of everyone, we settled for the 3 day Mekong tour with exit in Phnom Penh with SinhTourist.  Not the cheapest option at $84 each, but hardly expensive and they do have a reasonable reputation.

So with low expectations, we get packed, get a goodie-bag of sweets and keep our fingers crossed…

We arrived at the SinhTourist office in HCMC at about 7:15 to find chaos with hundreds of people milling around, but somehow we got herded onto the right bus, and to be fair it was AC and fairly comfortable.  For the next few days we’d resigned ourselves to just do as we’re told and see what happens, so were fairly relaxed about the itinerary.

After a bus stint, then boat we went to our first stop – a bee (honey) farm where we had honey tea which was lovely even though I hate both honey and tea!  Some locals then entertained with some very relaxing Mekong style music which may be touristy, but then some people on the trip who were local started to sing as well – made it really quite good and validated the authenticity.  After another little boat ride we visited a coconut candy workshop where the locals made some lovely sweets which we bought (of course!) and at reasonable prices.  Then on to an excellent included lunch which far exceeded expectations with fair priced drinks.  So far, no hassle, no encouraged tips, and no forced sales.  Wow!

The hotel for the night in Can Tho was, it has to be said, pretty naff.  List price was $13 a night and no doubt the tour company pay less, but it was a clean bed and working AC, and a hot shower – though the shower was shared with a cockroach.  As “backpackers” we found it acceptable for one night, but can imagine why travellers used to better hotels may moan.  Our quick tour for an evening meal didn’t excite us to Can Tho – looked like it may be okay but not a destination for fun.

After an early start and another bus/boat we headed towards Cai Rang Floating Market which was very quiet due to Tet, enough to give you an idea, but not as chaotic and exciting as it otherwise would have been.  Further up a feeder river by rowing boat we visited a fruit garden where all the tropical fruit is grown, and thereafter a taste of the produce which introduced some new fruits to us.  Again, surprisingly, no sales pitches and a very chilled insight into local sustenance.  A visit to Vinh Long market showed all the produce for sale (along with some living and not-so-living food!) – but sadly not in a position to buy the lovely looking fresh stuff. 

We then realised only the 2 of us from our group were heading to Cambodia, so we got dumped off and told someone else will pick us up!  Which they did!  So another bus to Chau Doc for the night, this time in a budget but better hotel, and including a nice local meal in town.  Chau Doc looked and felt a lot more exciting than Can Tho, with a lively local scene.

In the morning, we then had a lovely rowing boat trip along the Mekong at Chau Doc, to see some floating villages, fish farms and a Cham village.  Only the latter was rushed and the old lady rowers were the first to wave money for tips – a shame as we had a tip ready to give – and its nicer to give than be demanded.  Funny their only English is “Hello” and “I’m tired” and “This is hard work”.  Bless.

We then found out only 4 people from that group were going to Cambodia, so we got passed off again via a rowing boat to a motorboat to take us the 3 hours to the Cambodia border.  We were very surprised indeed to find our rucksacks were on the motorboat along with some other people – so regardless of how chaotic it looked, there clearly is method in the chaos!  The lady on the motorboat looks and acts very similar to one of our UK Vietnamese friends which was sweet, and she took care of all the passports and visa forms leaving us to enjoy the views.  Though she did vanish mid way with everyones passports and visa money!

Just before the Cambodia border there seems to be a floating border post (Vietnam exit?) – but apart from getting our passports returned and a drink not much happened, though we did change boats and headed further up the river to the Cambodian immigration where our Visa ($22) was validated and we were allowed in.

After another hour or two we swapped to a bus for the last leg to Phnom Penh.  I say bus, it was more like a 10 seater minibus with 17 people and baggage…. The view out of the winder was incredibly interesting, and eventually we made it to Phnom Penh – but not where we were supposed to be…  Thus a load of tuk-tuks were ready to take us on, and one wanted $4 each – but we gave him jip and paid the correct rate of $2 total to our guest house.  Good to know the expected rate before you arrive!

So our view of this trip to Cambodia up the Mekong is 100% positive – and can’t think of a nicer way to get to and cross a border.  Really very chilled, and yes some minor agro (and I mean minor) and whist there is some dull bus links, the majority of the sites are interesting and beautiful.  We wondered if 3 days was too many, but in hindsight 4 or 5 days would probably be okay.  Yes some things are budget, but the rest of the trip makes up for it.  We reckon you could DIY getting from HCMC to Phnom Penh, but with the extra interesting and hassle free excursions, the bus/boat/rowing boat links that just work, then I think the tour is by far the best option.

So on a hugely positive note, we end our eventful and interesting trip to Vietnam – and the Mekong is the icing on the rather tasty cake.

See HERE for summary, costs and review of Vietnam

See HERE for next installment for Phnom Penh, Cambodia

See trip index here,Vietnam index here and additional Vietnam photos here

For our last full day in Hoi An we decided to go to the Marble Mountains which are about 30km away.  We were told the only way to get there was via a private taxi ($25) and then get a guide, but we found an organised tour for $10 each with a guide and so we booked this.  When the minibus turned up we found we were the only two people, so ended up with a superb private tour of the mountains with an excellent guide who gave us interesting history with the Cham people and with the more recent usage by the Viet Cong.

The caves are like many others we’ve seen on this trip, but are probably top pick easily beating Batu caves in Malaysia.  Good views, lovely natural caves, and of course a couple of Temples and Pegodas.  Having a private guide also meant no hawking or sales pressure which was good. There were some lovely marble sculptures but none that would fit in our backpack.

Leaving Hoi An is probably our first real “mistake” of the trip, caused by both the weather and the Tet New Year holidays.  In Hanoi and Hue the weather was quite poor, and we were also told that hotels places get booked up over the new year period.  So we booked in advance in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) – bypassing the beach resort of Nha Trang and the mountainous French-esque town of Dalat – both of which are typically visited in Vietnam. However, in Hoi An the weather improved and we now know the long distance Sinhtourist night bus is good, meaning that Nha Trang and Dalat were easily accessible and the weather was ideal, but we could not change.    Damn.  Interestingly, Winter and Summer occur at different times in Vietnam – the North is still in Winter, whereas they say the south is in Summer (more tropical climate)…

Instead we took an easy flight from Danang to Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) for £34 each and will try not to plan too far ahead in future!

We say easy flight, but our plane (Boeing 777 – bizarre choice for an hours’ flight) had a technical problem – we could actually see a load of guys on ladders fiddling with an engine.  After over an hour late we boarded and took off, and as soon as we landed the engine was in bits again.  Hmmm.  100% record of technical malfunction on Vietnamese airlines for us…

Our pre booked taxi picked us up from the airport so we avoided the scams, and got to our hotel which is in the backpacker ghetto.  Every shop is a hotel, travel agent, or bar – and some very dodgy bars (busy!) charging 4x the going rate for a bottle of beer.  We met some French people we met in Hanoi for a drink and they chose the rip-off bar!  DOH!

HCMC is a bit quieter than Hanoi (though still very busy), the streets slightly wider, and still an adventure to cross the road.  Doing our usual walking spree, we visited the Reunification Palace which was clearly an ultra-modern 1960s building, but now just an impressive out-of-date building.   Not much to see, and not many facts and much history being told. 

Then we went to the War Remnants museum dedicated to the Vietnam/American war.  We were warned this was highly biased and full of propaganda, but actually we found it reasonably factual albeit telling just one side of the story.  Most photos/quote were backed up with “facts”, and learning about some of the things the Americans did, along with recorded quotes from the American politicians – you have to wonder what on earth the yanks were doing….  Some very very sad and distressing pictures, especially regarding Agent Orange, but worth a visit to learn some more about the recent troubles.

After a rather nice meal and some good random company of a couple moving UK to OZ, we headed into town to see some dodgy live music, then the busy flower streets down to the river for the 2012 lunar new year (Tet) celebrations.  1000’s of people, though very orderly, and bizarrely everyone just sits on the floor!   The midnight fireworks were impressive (though not mega-wow) – and they had some we hadn’t seen before.  Afterwards, there was a fairly orderly getaway – until that is they all got on their mopeds…

1000s of mopeds and people and it was grid lock – the only way to cross the road was by forcing your way through and even tilting handlebars to squeeze through! Even the pavements aren’t safe havens!  We lost 20 years of life getting back but it was nice to see in another new year in a different way.

See our last stint in Vietnam here

See trip index here,Vietnam index here and additional Vietnam photos here

Our fiftieth day started early for a 6am tour to the DMZ.  Yeah – I know we hate organised tours, but there is very little alternative to see the DMZ.  Annoyingly, we got picked up at 6am, driven around for a bit, had a crap breakfast, then at 7:45am drove back past our hotel!  What a waste as we could’ve had an extra hour in bed and a decent breakfast. 

The tour of the DMZ took us to part of the Ho Chi Minh trail (Hiel Luong Bridge), and the bit we saw was just a modern bridge from Korea.  Then on to an old US airbase Khe Kanh with some old US equipment and then on to the Vinh Moc tunnels – a network of tunnels buried to avoid US bombs.

The tunnels are worth seeing and the history is interesting, but the rest of the items on the tour were not.  With 7 hours on a bus to see them you really need to be keen – or see the trip as more of a way of seeing the countryside and real villages and towns with a few DMZ bits thrown in. 

When we were back in the UK, we (and I’m sure some family and friends) thought we were going where no man had gone before – but as we’ve found its not the case – it really is a well trodden path.  Wandering round Hue in the evening we bumped into some more people we met in Ha Long bay and had a good night with.  They were just leaving Hue, but due to the standard route we all seem to follow, we have arranged a night out in Hoi An in a couple of days.  The French couple we met on the same trip and bumped into a few days ago – we will be meeting in Ho Chi Minh in a week or so!  Such a small world, and clearly such an unadventurous and standard route we use!

For our last day in Hue we used a walking map provided free from the Mandarin Cafe (cheap good food and beer) and explored the town a bit more – nice to be free of tours!  Had my hair cut and probably had the most care ever taken.  Took two guys to do it, one with clippers and one with a cut throat razor, and cost 50,000 dong (£1.60) which is cheap but probably Western rates.  We had hoped to get to our next stop in Hoi An by train and public bus, but due to the upcoming Tet holidays the public busses are packed to the brim and not really suitable.  So a comfortable tourist bus has been booked for the 3-4 hour journey.

As it turned out, the bus was the SinhTourist sleeping bus, which was a bizarre 3-row, 2 high and about 8 long arrangement with seats that reclined almost flat and really very comfortable.  Ifyou consider an overnight bus trip then use them.  Great views along the way, but we didn’t go over the pass and instead used the tunnel.  Made no difference due to the mist anyway.

Hoi An turns out to be a rather pleasant and chilled town though slightly tourist orientated.  But easy to walk around, nice shops, and lots of UNESCO sites to see, such as temples and the covered Japanese Bridge.  Restaurants are easy to find and menus easy to read, and the food rather good.    We had a nice meal in one which was rated at 71/144 – so thats at least 70 other good places. 

From our hotel we can walk about 3km interesting walk and get to the beach and sea, which again was rather pleasant – lovely quiet sandy beaches with good views.  And we are now fortunate the cloudy weather that has dogged us since getting into Vietnam has cleared.

One of the typical trips from here is to My Son – a UNESCO temple (ruin) complex.  Very nice to look at, and interesting, but only an hour or so needed.  Seeing  My Son is so typical we saw 2 people we’ve met previously!

All in all, a rather interesting few days in Vietnam

Next installment is here

See trip index here,Vietnam index here and additional Vietnam photos here

Hanoi is still a city of chaos – not a place to come if you want a relaxing time.  For new westerners street eating isn’t easy, most places don’t have menus or speak English and as Mel doesn’t eat meat  or speak Vietnamese its a bit tough. Also its a bit cold and sitting outside isn’t ideal especially on tiny plastic chairs that are meant for primary schools.  But, we found a nice restaurant with street-type food (and more) for only a little extra – and you can sit inside with a beer!  Our new Hanoi regular haunt.

We booked a trip to Ha Long bay which to be fair is a must see, even if (like us) you’ve already visited multiple limestone lakes/sea/caves in recent weeks.  After looking into a DIY trip we opted for a cheapish ($84) overnight trip, which included the 3.5hr minibus ride to Ha Long town (an adventure in itself!) and an overnight stay on a “junk” boat.  We were expecting a dire boat, but the cabin was a double en-suite room with AC which was actually pretty good. Food was good and we were lucky with a nice group on the boat too, French, German, Isreali, Brazilian, Polish and more, and a guy from Slough! 

The limestone cave was a bit standard, and the walk up a hill for the view was pretty good.  Kayaking was okay but, again, fairly standard, and as the sun was behind cloud it wasn’t really the weather to max out the watersports.  Overall though a pretty good trip and superb if you’ve not been to similar places recently.

Our final Hanoi day saw us take in the Women Museum; Ho Chi Minh museum and the Literature temple.  All good sites but some of them a bit lost on us I’m afraid!

Our next stop is Hue (pronounced hway), and the travel options include overnight train journey, overnight bus, or fly.  After seeing a French couple have to get a taxi-bike (3 people and 3 rucksacks on a Moped), and after the 3.5hr bus ride to Ha Long bay we’re glad we took the safe and quick chicken route and opted for a quick flight – £56pp.  I know….. 

However….  when we were taxiing the plane had a problem with a “flight control system” so we had to return to the gate.  Obviously with a hammer and gaffa tape they fixed it, but then said “its now air worthy but we can’t land in the wet – and its raining in Hue” – so they tried to find another plane.  But then they got approval from Airbus that we could land in the rain so we left about 90 minutes late.

We got to our hotel in Hue and went for a walk, and low and behold we met the French couple who took the bus and they said the bus was excellent!  Damn.  Small world…

For our first day in Hue we went on a typical ”city tour”.  Whilst we generally hate being herded around, a few of the must-see tombs are miles away and the only way (bar expensive taxi) is via a tourist bus.   So after a quick dash around the Citadel (more time needed) plus a few other okay ish bits n bobs we went to the 3 tombs – Minh Mang; Khai Dinh and Tu Doc.  All different emperor tombs ages and styles and all impressive in their own way – either location, build, or natural beauty.  Well worth it – though the dragon boat bit back wasn’t really exciting!

On our return we ventured to the Citadel side of the river, rather busier and more local than our side, with a manic market.  But generally, Hue is more chilled than Hanoi in a nice sort of way but is still exciting – more Thai like.  Maybe the reason is the amount of cannabis we keep getting offered…

see next installment here

See trip index here Vietnam index here and additional Vietnam photos here

After an early start we got our bus to KL, quite a posh coach.  Yet despite all the naff busses we’ve used, it was this posh one that kept breaking down…  We did make the airport on time though and arrived OK in Hanoi, and got to our hotel without problem.  OK – we arranged a prebooked taxi to avoid all the airport scams.  Annoyingly, after 31’C and sunny for many weeks, Hanoi is cloudy and about 15’C which feels freezing!  Bring back the beach!

Completely knackered we went for a quick scout around Hanoi old town.  Blimey.  Makes Bangkok look like a quiet village, bikes everywhere, traffic lights, roundabouts and one-way streets ignored, and action and entertainment everywhere.  Quite a laugh to watch!  After getting some cash and finding our feet, we bought some food without issue, but then almost fell to a short-changing scam with a street seller.  I was just highlighting the incorrect money when a tourist policeman ran over and smacked her over the head and gave her a bollocking.  Oops.  Got my change but probably paid over the odds anyway.  Then the next supermarket where we got water tried to short change us and we think we were fake banknote somewhere along the line (worth 3p!)

Despite this early warning, Vietnam has the buzz and excitement lacking in Malaysia, but with much more care needed…

After a good nights sleep we were a bit more alert as we continued to see Hanoi.  The traffic and bikes remain chaotic but organised, and you can easily cross the road by walking across and just have belief everyone will avoid you.  They do, and its quite normal – though if we end up run over then you know we got it wrong….  Apart from the usual 4 people or 3 crates on a moped, we’ve seen a dead pig, a living pig, an orange tree, and 20 goldfish in their own bags.  Never a dull moment!

The Army museum is interesting showing downed and captured American planes, and the tone of some of the exhibits saying how they defeated the French is quite amusing!  Worth the 30,000 entry fee (£1) just for that.  The two lakes are worth wandering around, but sadly it is quite chilly in Hanoi in December so the lakes and parks weren’t at their best.

 With Tet coming up the Hanoi market was an absolute zoo – no idea how it works but money was changing hands everywhere and boxes/bags moving anywhere and everywhere.  Complete chaos to a westerner!  We popped into the infamous Hanoi Hilton prison (Hoa Lo) which the French built to house Vietnamese prisoners, but later used to hold American pilots caught in the Vietnam war.  The propaganda was immense saying how well the US prisoners were looked after – not quite how the US saw it…

One must see in Hanoi is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.  We had no idea what to expect, and were expecting it to be dire, but it was actually a superb bit of entertainment.  Very clever indeed and well worth the visit.

With poor weather, the idea of going trekking to Sapa was forgotten – at 1500m it can cold and foggy, and not lush and green as it would be in the summer.  Instead we are going to head to Halong bay for an overnight trip on a Junk – and just got our fingers crossed on the weather!  We’ll return to Hanoi after as there is still much more to see.

See next installment here