I am thinking of getting a Flatmaster for our 2 bedroom flat. Only place I can install it is in our boiler room. Do you think it’s ok to have the inlet next to the boiler’s exhaust outlet? There is a hole already on the wall that I can put the inlet of the Flat master through.
I’m not an expert and don’t pretend to be, so you really should contact Nuaire and ask them for their rules & regulations My personal feeling is not a hope in hell! The flue is there to get rid of toxic gas. Even having a window close is prohibited. Having a suction inlet pulling those fumes in is likely to put you on the Darwin award list.
Maybe outlet and run ducting to somewhere safer – but please speak to the manufacturers and experts. Gas combustion fumes can easily and quietly kill – so don’t risk it
I have a Transit that constantly switches to “Limp mode”
It appears to have a Low Pressure fuel rail problem but we have replaced and check everything, including new Injectors and Rail. Very frustrating indeed. Still no fix
If I can give any advice it would be check the simple thinks first don’t take them for granted
I replace every thing I could before finding the problem with was the turbo vacuum solenoid.
Wow, what a useful post. thanks for taking the time to write this excellent article about your experiences & lessons learned. Very best wishes for your future adventures!
Are you talking about an inverter here? The reason I ask is that laptops require different voltages and have different plug sizes.
IMHO it is probably best to go for a 12v car adaptor charger from the laptop manufacturer or a highly respected manufacturer. One of the advantages with a car adaptor charger is the they will (most do anyway) charge at a lower rate but will take more time of course. The other option of using an inverter and then plugging your laptops mains charger into this is that the power demand might too high.
Thanks for such a detailed description of fitting a Tranie water pump, just love my transit they keep going for ever, but once in while they do need some TLC, glad I found this post will save me a load of time complete with pics awesome.
Hi i have a ford transit long wheel base
Had problems starting found pump to be at fault before this i found two relays gray ones
1 felt hot the other okay so i swaped them round and turned key and smoke pored out of little red wire nere battary gose to battery jump point so braught new relay conected wire and tured key burnt again …so had new pump installed and coded in still wont start pluged in code reader and said no power to relay any help
This write up is amazing. My oil cooler thermostat was knackered. £11 on ebay or £30 from ford. ( i was desperate) after a snapped bolt, two damaged hoses later i was done.
Be carefull with the wiring loom that seems dangerously close to the pully. Mine had worn four wires down to bare copper.
Thank you SO flipin much for this write up. You must be a distant relative to jesus.
Andrew
Well just started to plan some wild camping this year and i found you guys my 1st mission was a tv for the van and here we are. Can i just ask what aerial you went for in the end, Did you use the one supplied or get another and i am guessing in needs to plug into usb ??
Hello, I also have a camper build on Ford Transit 2005, it`s a 135T350 with a 2.4 TDCI engine. I`m looking for a scantool so I can look at the DTC codes myself. I have some trouble with the engine running unstable. Do I understand you wright when I say that the F-super cable works find in my transit?
Hi.
Really sorry, can’t say for sure. My “skills” are limited to the 2.0TDCi.
May I suggest you look/ask on the forum at http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 – these guys are the real experts.
Good luck
Loving how you have adapted your site to include your various forms of travel.
We’re back in the UK getting ourselves financially secure before we start to travel again in 2016. Scandinavia and the Arctic Circle are still on our bucket list, so we might finally get to meet up! 🙂
We have a 4500 sq ft 3 story house with 26 windows which would have approx 1 inch of condensation on a cold frosty night. We fitted 3 drimasters units 6 weeks ago, 2 of them on the top floor set at 4 and 1 on the 2 nd floor set at 3. The house was originally 2 houses put into 1 big house. I bought a humidity meter and the readings on it can be as high as 83percent, should this not be lower. We would still get condensation approx. 1 inch on very cold nights. The air in the house is fresher and cooler. The 2 drimasters fitted in the top storey use the same roof space which is about 30 ft long and 12 ft wide. Should these drimasters not work better at these settings and why is the humidity still so high. Does it depend on the outside weather conditions, if it is a wet day the humidity inside is higher, is damp air being pulled into the house or does it depend on temperature of the house? Please if someone can help me, should we still get condensation with the drimasters running at the settings stated and the approx. size of the house. If you have any thoughts on these I would really appreciate your comments. Thank you
Two fans mounted in the same place can cancel each other out. Its the same if you use two extractor fans in a kitchen at the same time. The drag from the two fans can create a negative pull as they pull against each other. One fan running at higher speed would be much better. I am not a scientist at all but in my years in the building trade I have seen this happen. The first time was a kitchen that had a fan in the window and a ducted cooker hood over the hob. The lady naturally though to put both the fans on at the same time and get double benefit but no, the kitchen was full of condensation. I told her only to use one fan at any time an no condensation. I suppose you could say that was a scientific experiment.
See http://www.drimaster-piv-condensation-system.co.uk/ for more info as I’ve moved this topic to a dedicated site. I’ve duplicated your comment there.
Please see the “about us” page, as I am most definitely not an expert on this topic, I’m just some bloke on the internet who has one!
I would say, 1″ of condensation isn’t bad – we still get maybe 1″ at the bottom of the bedroom windows on some nights. Previously, prior to install, we used to get the entire window “wet” – not just condensation but water running down, so getting to 1″ for us was a success.
83% humidity does sound high though, and remember the PIV does not dehumidify and should only be part of the solution. So I would say you need to look at HOW the moisture is getting there in the first place and address that. See http://www.drimaster-piv-condensation-system.co.uk/condensation-removal-control-solution/ – as if you are drying clothes over the radiators, and do not extract from the bathroom, then you need to address this first.
If your loft is damp/leaking or has high humidity, then yes that will be pulled into the house. No one else has mentioned this…. Maybe monitor the loft humidity? We had the house reroofed with a breathable membrane (post PIV install due to roof leaking, not related).
Sorry I can’t help more
After extensive research, due to being cynical that it would work I purchased this unit. We have a 90yr old bungalow with solid walls and suffered with mould in the three bedrooms. Humidity levels were 74 – 77% every morning, Envirovent suggested readings should be 45 – 55% along with their quote of £2000 which is why we went for Nuaire.It has now been installed for a week, I helped the electrician install it so his charge was £100 and took us 5hrs.
24 hrs after install (on setting 4 which is probably too high for the size of property) the readings had dropped 10% , after five days they have dropped to 53%. The walls affected by mould now have a “powdery” feel to them as they are drying out. Their is a 2cm band of condensation on one of the bedroom windows and that’s it. We’re staggered by the results and has by far exceeded expectations so thanks to this blog and all the comments for advice. We never believed that we would cure it for £400 – as I look out now all the neighbours have their windows open except for us.
Hi Paul
Thank you for taking the time to reply, I never checked humidity levels to good to her the difference that makes. After 2 years, we are still surprised it works lol – but even today, -2’c outside, windows closed, we just have a 2cm band of condensation which clears quickly. One day this year we had a light dusting of mist over the window (maybe we generated too much moisture overnight lol) – but still never wiped the window.
Hope this page helped in your research. Best wishes
I bought the digital humidity meter for £3 for our sons room but do move it around as slightly obsessive with checking the readings! As one aspect of the diffuser is within 400mm of the wall I refitted the foam insert. The next day there was damp on one wall (humidity 82%) so removed the insert. Within 30 mins it had dropped by 5% and it was back to dry wall by the next morning, just proves how effective it is. Certainly your blog was a great source of info especially independent wiring of the heater which we haven’t felt the need to use yet despite the below zero temperatures this week. Will it automatically shut off in the summer or do I need to adjust the settings? Are your camping tips as good ??!
lol – yes, camping tips are what this site is about 🙂 So over xmas I duplicated this page and added more info to http://www.drimaster-piv-condensation-system.co.uk/#comment-10432 (copied your comment if that’s okay)
To answer your question, if the wall is getting damp WITH a drimaster in the room (but with foam insert in) – then wow – that is a problem wall. We need just one drimaster in the landing and it deals with all of the house. Of course, blowing air down the wall will help – but there may be other causes of damp there as that sounds extreme – the outlet in the room should be enough as it should work by pressure, not “blow flow”.
The heater is thermostat controlled, and will come on and off as necessary – so set correctly the heater will be off during the summer anyway (though mine I can switch off manually). If you don’t have it on, then your wall must be freezing! The PIV is on 24x7x365 even over summer, but its very low power and is happy being left on – and also speeds up if the loft gets hot so to get “free heat” under certain conditions.
I bought my Drimaster-heat on Amazon for £307, cut the hole, installed the vent, then the unit in the loft as per the instructions, the only difficult bit was getting the flexible tube on to the unit but all in all one afternoon, wired it, tried it, works perfectly (have to have it checked by a qualified sparky now). So, not too difficult to install, there is also a very good video on Youtube which helped me.
Thank you for such an excellent article. You have given me the confidence to deal with my transit problems head on. Now I understand what does what and how. Well done my friend
Ive the Drimaster Heat but cant work out the heater settings can someone give me some advice on this please. My landing is certainly drier but a lot cooler.I only seem to manage to turn the fan up or down and cant get my head around the settings.
I fitted the unit about 6 months ago.
There are 2x different settings. One on the behaviour of the unit (see section 12) – for loft heat recovery. Think I went for option 2 or 4 – can’t remember. Read the manual as getting to this program mode is awkward. Also, you can adjust the dial on the board of the heater to the set temperature on the heater. Make sure the heater is working and “on” too – as if “on” the air should be as warm as you want it. (though balance between heat & cost….)
i had a Drimaster installed about two years ago in my very old stone cottage. We had dreadful mould problems as the walls are three feet thick and very cold. The Drimaster has completely cured the mould and I haven’t had to bleach the walls since installing it. My only query is whether, now that I’ve had central heating installed, we are paying to heat the outside air, since presumably the warm indoor air is being drawn out and cold, dry air being drawn back in. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks.
The system pulls in air from loft/outside and blows it in. Yes, in winter its cool/cold, that’s why I bought the drimaster heat. The warm air inside only escapes via normal holes, its not blown out. If you want to minimise that you need a fully blown heat recovery system. But the Drimaster Heat should be fine, but of course cost to heat the cold air in winter, but cheaper than fixing mould!
Hi, really enjoyed your blog. We have just purchased a Cavarno 4 on a 2010 plate. We are setting off to Spain on the 15th October, driving down through France which we have done many times over the years. We liked the Cavarnos build quality & layout & it suits our needs at the moment as we have an old caravan in Spain which we stay in for the winter. The Cararno gives us the option to tour on route to & from Spain & also use as an everyday method of transport.
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