Comments

Hi Karen.
The roof light is brilliant, perfect size and good enough ventilation (quad air). Lots of light. TBH – we have the rear and off-side windows covered most of the time…. (On a campsite as we speak, and that’s how we are! Windscreen covered too. Its fine for normal UK temps. We have bought a fiamma fan which is 12v and clips over – not used yet but on our last trip in France we needed it (heat wave!). The cab aircon – yes, we do use a lot if we are in a hot climate… It also demists the windscreen quicker.
Been on campsite 4 nights (Edinburgh festival) running 12v compressor fridge and with solar only – and current at 103% full lol. So solar for us is essential. As for pop-top… Personal choice. We’d not have one if we did an NV again we’re happy with out, but some others swear by them. 90% of our usage is AWAY from campsites so pop-top not always suitable. We don’t “live in” the van – we’re always out and about. different usage, and you may want one. Or a bigger van! Deffo personal choice….. Get onto the NV200 camper group on facebook – you will get many more ideas.
Hope this helps

Sorry for delay
No – no static charge on hookup. Doesn’t sound right. My earth is bonded to the chassis and no issues.

Hi
Thanks for the kind words!
Our drivers seat doesn’t rotate – it would not work for our build. I don’t know if its possible without Zoom… Are you on the NV200 facebook groups – loads of conversions there and I’m sure someone will know if it is possible….
Lovely to see someone else using and abusing them! Ours will get another months outing shortly….
We are seriously considering van#2 in September 2020 – life is too short to delay and all that. But we have an improved design on L2H2 which can take bikes and boards and slightly more internal room than the CAD you see on this page. Presently just designing each join in my head so I know what is doable (by me) and designing out things I can’t do. We’ll know mid next year if we’re going to as we’ll be ordering new and getting it on the Sept registration…. The NV will be 4.5 years then, but undecided what we’d do – keep or sell… Problem is its probably worth more <5yo with the Nissan warrantee than 5y1m with no warrantee.... But the bigger van would not be usable as car#2 so we'd either need another car or less work. The latter is preferred 🙂 Time will tell....

Look on Facebook for NV200 group – many people have used the combi (car) version. Be aware there is more glass, more airbags and different dash options. Also its different tax class. Van is simpler. If you need crash approved seat – only option is the OEM seats left in situ. However you can get belted seats in the rear, like us, but they are not approved (regardless of what you hear) – but they don’t’ need to be. Just be confident in how they are made/fitted. Tough call for kids… (ours vvv seldom used)

Ha – I have a post on here with the same fix (blowing up the pipe). Never thought to use a clean hose pipe I always used the exhaust direct (spit). We lived with that for years, but Propex do sell an upgrade to the sensor if it becomes too much of a pain. Apparently it is a (usually) a stuck flow sensor (old ones have a windmill type that gets crudded up). New one has electronic flow sensor. Contact propex.

Brilliant 🙂
I would advise buying a new burner and carrying it as spare – as they will eventually fail and rust through – es if using LPG

Oh
Its a standard wordpress theme so should just work. Damn.
Sorry 🙁

Hi
Yep, still have it, and still using it to the max. Van#2 is (probably) a 2020 project….
If you are ever in Wiltshire happy for guided tours. The NV is very very tight as you know, so sizing is a compromise. My sink is a CAN FL1401 I think so google that for exact dimensions. The bed frame is 100cm wide, and there is mm clearance between that and the wardrobe and that and the nearside wall. My dimensions of wardrobe may not help as it depends on what you have on either side and how you’ve lined – e.g. if I say 400mm deep, you may only have 380 if you lined it differently…..
Happy to answer anything specific – but bear in mind the answer may be correct for me, and wrong for you (trying to be helpful lol – though it reads bad!)

Hi
I priced up car/camper/MPV and gave dimensions where needed, and from memory saw no difference. I know I called up one of the ferry companies and they didn’t seem bothered. So its gone on as camper (if same price) or car/mPV if cheaper. Never got a second look.
We are under 1.9m and a few times put on the car deck, but a few times pulled out and put with vans. Never an issue. Hope that answers

Thanks 🙂

Yeah, had Gaslow on the other van (but 6kg size, didn’t know they did smaller). But with solar/compressor fridge (which is free power due to solar, and easier venting for the location I want); and diesel heating, gas usage is actually quite small. A 6kg calor will last 3+ months for just cooking and water, and hence gaslow not really needed…. Depends on usage – if you have gas fridge or heating, gaslow is a no brainer!. Have to say, if I ever do need to add refillable gas, converting calor to gaslow is trivial – though I’d probably go Gas-it and a bigger underslung tank….

Some similarities at the front and bulkhead for sure, but no bathroom in that one. Pretty good getting 2+2 and bikes in there though.
Our design hasn’t been tweaked much in the last few weeks, so we are *almost* there design wise, now just need to find where to source the specific bits 🙂 Thanks for the link

Hi,

I have tried them and they are good quality. Very happy.

Yeah – is a bit odd. The first charger I had (recommended by a supplier) whacked in 15.7v every time the fridge cut in, and took me a while to notice. Maybe that did damage? Dunno. Maybe the batteries aged? They were only £55 each…. so…….. lol

Forgot to say, the Euro 6 I’ve not seen, so *may* have a smart alternator and need the D+ signal wired in. Just measure V+ after a long drive and when VB is charged and see if v>14v. If so it should be fine.

Hi. Nope. I have the older D250s not the D250SA which wasn’t invented when I did it. The Euro 5 I have (2016) does not have a smart alternator so isn’t an issue. If you are the same you don’t need to worry. The ignition feed is just for the smart alternator functionality (I read the manual a few days ago lol). Mine is just as per blog, + direct to vehicle battery, + to LB’s, + to Solar, and -.

No idea – they don’t appear on my search any more. I bought from https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gll2design – so maybe contact them direct?
Good luck

The roof struts in the NV do not appear structural – they are more anti-rattle and to give roof some ridigity if you stand on it. I was also worried, but no problem. They are just glued on – so I cut through the bar and then the glue. No issues. Its not for roll over protection or anything like that

The dealer said “anything you touch may not be covered by warrantee” which is fair enough. I explained what I was doing and they said “well if you cut a hole and it rusts its not going to be covered”. However my build deliberately didn’t touch any of the van drivetrain – apart from the diesel pick up and the battery – but no “changes” made – just my additions added.

The dealer appeared fair, understanding, and chilled. As well as being well priced – and even a £15/m service plan (which is dirt cheap).

Hi Jim. I’m reluctant to give you frame measurements as every van build is unique and lots of decisions were made in order to get the bed frame we did – such as what loo, front loo access, loo accessible overnight, belted seat (bolts stick out), flat front, rear NS corner cut out, what the side shape is etc. Some of those decisions affected other elements, like seat height etc. In the NV its all a compromise. An exact copy may be perfect for you, or a tweak here and there may make it better for you. FYI – I built the wardrobe after the bed was test fitted. So not the answer you want I’m afraid! If you are local you can always have a look and see what is similar and what isn’t?

Hi Graham.
Yes, you are right these are dated. I stopped bothering with creating them when others seemed to take the batten but then they stopped. Also tech has moved on!
Now, I subscribe to a couple of sources: campingcarinfos – and I use their app ; Wildcamping.co.uk forum (for pub spots, we use a new pub maybe every couple of months) – and archies campings.
But so many commercial people doing it and overlaps, its a minefield!
Good luck

No, those strips are just temperature to try and show the level. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152686612029 will go between the bottle and the regulator. This means if you turn the bottle off it will show the pressure. If needle drops in under an hour you have a leak!

No – think I used a grommet to get it through the locker, but then its just loose and fixed with clips, but is bare. It does go through the battery area and I see no problem with that – it isn’t in a place where it can be damaged. I would suggest a pressure dial on the gas bottle (easy way to know if there is a leak!) and also gas-drop vent in the locker and 50mm+ bottom lip – and seal locker with sealant so any escaped gas can’t “flow” anywhere hidden – except out through the floor.

Hi
All totally hand made.
The top surface is really think formica (ebay) that is just spray-contact adhesive onto bare ply. the furniture board is from grasshopper lesire (I think) – voringer ply (or something like that!) – v expensve : £120 a sheet but well worth it. Bare sheets of lightweight stuff was £45 a sheet. The hinges/buttons/trim was either ebay or megavanmats or any other supplier. Its all off-the-shelf stuff. Some youtube videos I watched “how to” – but basically in scrap, make a door the size you want. then screw to more scrap and use as temoplate to make hole (I used 5mm bit) Then use that wood -with-hole as a temoplate on real board – clamp and be careful – and hey presto you have a cut out of a door and a hole (with 5mm gap for trim). Think about it. And practice 🙂

See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1618-e1464115643930.jpg for the earth block (silver thing with all the black wires). This is to earth all the switches, heater, sockets and everyting else. (I mostly ran 0v nback to here for things rather than bolting to van body)
See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1622-e1464115589811.jpg shows the black wire going the same path as the +ve – so up to the D250. Then, as mentioned, the 0v is then taken from the D250 to the van bodywork via existing bolt.

Hi
Remember the entire metal chassis is at 0v – so you can earth anywhere. I planned to use the bolt from the load-tie down hook, but (FROM MEMORY) I decided to use a common earth off the CTEK D250S – as basically the engine +12v, the solar, and the mains charger all were near by, so I think I took a cable from the D250 0v and just ran that to an exiting nut that was in the recess. Sanded down the paint a little and crimped an “o” connector over the bolt. (Used 10mm cable). And the battery 0v ran up to the D250. I also took a cable to an earth block on the 12v electric control panel side and then earthed all “devices and cables” to that. Shortest route back.
Hope some of the images make sense – may be easier to look at photo gallery around the CTEK charger and the wiring. I’m away at the moment on 4g so not able to look.
Good luck
.Then

Thanks Alex, and good luck! Steal what ideas you can, but do remember everyone is different 🙂 You can get roofracks for the NV for your surfboards. Just put in the basics and enjoy to the max!

Hi Ryan and Mel. Regarding seat runners did you try scrap yards?.
and do you know what nissan car use’s same runners.
I am building a nv 200 camper and have same problem

Good spot!
We really struggled here, I installed the seat with an engineering customer with most bolts known to man, and they didn’t have any, nor did a couple of specialist suppliers on the industrial estate. As we were doing it there and then we didn’t look online. But anyone who prepares in advance should check your link as they do look right (and rated at 10.9 which is important)
Thanks for making me and others aware

Hi.
The panel is slightly raised on the brackets (but still lower than the skylight), and under there I have a waterproof box bonded to the roof, and the cables go into the rear side of that then into a hole through there inside the van. The hole is between the wooden bulkhead (where all the switches are) and the internal wardrobe wall – so it can’t be seen internally. Hope that helps

Glad to help. Still stand by the advice, though I did buy an inverter last week as my 12v laptop power supply failed and it was easier to get a small inverter to power the 240v power supply I had by chance lol – rather than seek out a 12v special one for this laptop which, in northern Norway was impossible.

But kettle and the like – gas is the only viable option

Thanks. Yep, give and take. I learn from others who give info out free too 🙂

The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <£1k - maybe £550-600 for frame, £350-400 for upholstery. TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.

Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….

Hi
Good question.
I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
Hope this helps?

No idea, but same principals apply to any TDCi engine

Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room 🙂
But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.

Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.

We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.

If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.

Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.

Good luck