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No idea – they don’t appear on my search any more. I bought from https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gll2design – so maybe contact them direct?
Good luck

The roof struts in the NV do not appear structural – they are more anti-rattle and to give roof some ridigity if you stand on it. I was also worried, but no problem. They are just glued on – so I cut through the bar and then the glue. No issues. Its not for roll over protection or anything like that

The dealer said “anything you touch may not be covered by warrantee” which is fair enough. I explained what I was doing and they said “well if you cut a hole and it rusts its not going to be covered”. However my build deliberately didn’t touch any of the van drivetrain – apart from the diesel pick up and the battery – but no “changes” made – just my additions added.

The dealer appeared fair, understanding, and chilled. As well as being well priced – and even a £15/m service plan (which is dirt cheap).

Hi Jim. I’m reluctant to give you frame measurements as every van build is unique and lots of decisions were made in order to get the bed frame we did – such as what loo, front loo access, loo accessible overnight, belted seat (bolts stick out), flat front, rear NS corner cut out, what the side shape is etc. Some of those decisions affected other elements, like seat height etc. In the NV its all a compromise. An exact copy may be perfect for you, or a tweak here and there may make it better for you. FYI – I built the wardrobe after the bed was test fitted. So not the answer you want I’m afraid! If you are local you can always have a look and see what is similar and what isn’t?

Hi Graham.
Yes, you are right these are dated. I stopped bothering with creating them when others seemed to take the batten but then they stopped. Also tech has moved on!
Now, I subscribe to a couple of sources: campingcarinfos – and I use their app ; Wildcamping.co.uk forum (for pub spots, we use a new pub maybe every couple of months) – and archies campings.
But so many commercial people doing it and overlaps, its a minefield!
Good luck

No, those strips are just temperature to try and show the level. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152686612029 will go between the bottle and the regulator. This means if you turn the bottle off it will show the pressure. If needle drops in under an hour you have a leak!

No – think I used a grommet to get it through the locker, but then its just loose and fixed with clips, but is bare. It does go through the battery area and I see no problem with that – it isn’t in a place where it can be damaged. I would suggest a pressure dial on the gas bottle (easy way to know if there is a leak!) and also gas-drop vent in the locker and 50mm+ bottom lip – and seal locker with sealant so any escaped gas can’t “flow” anywhere hidden – except out through the floor.

Hi
All totally hand made.
The top surface is really think formica (ebay) that is just spray-contact adhesive onto bare ply. the furniture board is from grasshopper lesire (I think) – voringer ply (or something like that!) – v expensve : £120 a sheet but well worth it. Bare sheets of lightweight stuff was £45 a sheet. The hinges/buttons/trim was either ebay or megavanmats or any other supplier. Its all off-the-shelf stuff. Some youtube videos I watched “how to” – but basically in scrap, make a door the size you want. then screw to more scrap and use as temoplate to make hole (I used 5mm bit) Then use that wood -with-hole as a temoplate on real board – clamp and be careful – and hey presto you have a cut out of a door and a hole (with 5mm gap for trim). Think about it. And practice 🙂

See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1618-e1464115643930.jpg for the earth block (silver thing with all the black wires). This is to earth all the switches, heater, sockets and everyting else. (I mostly ran 0v nback to here for things rather than bolting to van body)
See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1622-e1464115589811.jpg shows the black wire going the same path as the +ve – so up to the D250. Then, as mentioned, the 0v is then taken from the D250 to the van bodywork via existing bolt.

Hi
Remember the entire metal chassis is at 0v – so you can earth anywhere. I planned to use the bolt from the load-tie down hook, but (FROM MEMORY) I decided to use a common earth off the CTEK D250S – as basically the engine +12v, the solar, and the mains charger all were near by, so I think I took a cable from the D250 0v and just ran that to an exiting nut that was in the recess. Sanded down the paint a little and crimped an “o” connector over the bolt. (Used 10mm cable). And the battery 0v ran up to the D250. I also took a cable to an earth block on the 12v electric control panel side and then earthed all “devices and cables” to that. Shortest route back.
Hope some of the images make sense – may be easier to look at photo gallery around the CTEK charger and the wiring. I’m away at the moment on 4g so not able to look.
Good luck
.Then

Thanks Alex, and good luck! Steal what ideas you can, but do remember everyone is different 🙂 You can get roofracks for the NV for your surfboards. Just put in the basics and enjoy to the max!

Hi Ryan and Mel. Regarding seat runners did you try scrap yards?.
and do you know what nissan car use’s same runners.
I am building a nv 200 camper and have same problem

Good spot!
We really struggled here, I installed the seat with an engineering customer with most bolts known to man, and they didn’t have any, nor did a couple of specialist suppliers on the industrial estate. As we were doing it there and then we didn’t look online. But anyone who prepares in advance should check your link as they do look right (and rated at 10.9 which is important)
Thanks for making me and others aware

Hi.
The panel is slightly raised on the brackets (but still lower than the skylight), and under there I have a waterproof box bonded to the roof, and the cables go into the rear side of that then into a hole through there inside the van. The hole is between the wooden bulkhead (where all the switches are) and the internal wardrobe wall – so it can’t be seen internally. Hope that helps

Glad to help. Still stand by the advice, though I did buy an inverter last week as my 12v laptop power supply failed and it was easier to get a small inverter to power the 240v power supply I had by chance lol – rather than seek out a 12v special one for this laptop which, in northern Norway was impossible.

But kettle and the like – gas is the only viable option

Thanks. Yep, give and take. I learn from others who give info out free too 🙂

The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <£1k - maybe £550-600 for frame, £350-400 for upholstery. TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.

Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….

Hi
Good question.
I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
Hope this helps?

No idea, but same principals apply to any TDCi engine

Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room 🙂
But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.

Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.

We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.

If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.

Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.

Good luck

No – it is special lightweight ply which is coated. MUCH straighter than normal ply and about 1/2 the weight. Expensive though – £45-50 for 8×4 sheet of plain stuff I used for non visible areas, and £120+ for the finished stuff. Has a very fine layer of covering.
Available from specialist suppliers in self-build parts.

Not sure where you mean? the wheel arches? If so the arches are just the 7mm foam insulation and carpet straight over the wheel arch.
We only battoned the floor as above – and really can’t remember the sizes.

Is it this one http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-loft-insulation-l8m-w370mm-t100mm/197658_BQ.prd?ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700018862572466&utm_source=google_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PX_GSC_Building_Outdoor_Best_Sellers&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFwPqmhupG8YoJvpW0fL8clMkzgn_qy0bqpOMP5NJNs23AZnSctd3DsaAi5WEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJCKqu7ur9cCFfiE7QodlP8G9A ?

Hi. The door handle is designed to leak, so you need to ensure there is a drainage channel. The step is obvious 🙂 ON THE VAN VERSION there are only a few obvious bolts and then it pulls off. FROM MEMORY the step is clipped in by rubber-over-ball type fittings so is snug when fitted and needs coaxing off. Be brave! (Assuming it is the same of course!!) If you send me a photo I can say if it looks the same?

Nope! No chance. A slow cooker will take 0.7kw over, say, 4 hours cooking time? 0.7kw @ 240v = 3A @ 240v. At 12v this would be 60A (!!).
So 240AH over a 4 hr period. Ideally You should never use >50% of battery power, so you’d need 5x 100AH batteries for powering a slow cooker for 4hrs – and after than they’d be flat. You’d then struggle to charge them!
For heating, cooking, gas is the best/only way in a campervan away from hookup or generator.

Hi, not sure what you mean? Looks OK from here?

Beyond whats on this page, I know nothing, and I’ve never seen a 2.4 So hopefully someone else can help. Also look at the fordtransit.org forum – those guys know their stuff. Good luck

Hmmm. Probably, yes, but I’d not recommend it. for the seat to swivel it needs to be in a particular “place” front to back. If you fixed it there, its not optimum for either sitting in as a passenger, or as a habitation seat. It needs to be “towards the back” for the passenger to have room when driving, and “towards the front of the van” when rotated for the habitation to have room (and to make room for loo). Youd also need to open the door to rotate which you don’t with sliders.

So yes, probably, but I wouldn’t.

Why without runners? They are cheap and don’t actually alter the height of the seat compared to how it is made – even with the turntable?

A/C as in “air conditioning”? If so – no – 12v / solar/ battery will not run air con – or if it does, not for very long. Habitation air con is too much current for that – it needs mains hookup. You also can’t use the engine air con without the engine running.

If you mean A/C as in “mains power” – then the CTEK only does solar/engine/habitation battery – and that’s enough – the solar keeps the batteries full even when running the compressor fridge. Even on campsites where we have 240v – we don’t plug in. (We have separate 240v-12v charger system – see blog).

Everything runs on 12v, lights, pump, laptops, tech, etc – no need for 240v unless, say, camping over winter and need constant heating where a 240v heater may be needed?

Good spot, fixed, thanks.

Fresh is 30L. Waste is 20L.
Fresh has 4x LED for 50%+ 30-50% 10-30% and <10% full (roughly) Waste has 1x LED when 80% full.