Inspired by your brilliant blog I am just about to purchase a NV200.
Couple of questions about ventilation.
Do you find that the roof vent is sufficient or would one including a fan help. Also how much do you use the aircon in the cab. As I’m buying secondhand there are not many Accentas with aircon but I have my eye on a Tekna.
Sorry one more question. If doing this again with all the info you have would you fit a poptop for more headroom , or do they just not work well with solar panels and the issue of ventilation when they are in the down position. I know that there is also the cost to consider.
Hi Karen.
The roof light is brilliant, perfect size and good enough ventilation (quad air). Lots of light. TBH – we have the rear and off-side windows covered most of the time…. (On a campsite as we speak, and that’s how we are! Windscreen covered too. Its fine for normal UK temps. We have bought a fiamma fan which is 12v and clips over – not used yet but on our last trip in France we needed it (heat wave!). The cab aircon – yes, we do use a lot if we are in a hot climate… It also demists the windscreen quicker.
Been on campsite 4 nights (Edinburgh festival) running 12v compressor fridge and with solar only – and current at 103% full lol. So solar for us is essential. As for pop-top… Personal choice. We’d not have one if we did an NV again we’re happy with out, but some others swear by them. 90% of our usage is AWAY from campsites so pop-top not always suitable. We don’t “live in” the van – we’re always out and about. different usage, and you may want one. Or a bigger van! Deffo personal choice….. Get onto the NV200 camper group on facebook – you will get many more ideas.
Hope this helps
Hi, great job on the van! I’ve recently had my Nv200 converted. We’re experiencing some issues with the mains hookup. When hooked up, a static charge builds up on the outside of the van and gives a static shock when you touch it. Did you experience anything like this?
Hi need help just bought NV200 can anyone help with ready made blinds maybe contact no.also can any one help with best bike carrier tow bar fitted,
Thanks
Hi Ryan & Mel
Wow, what a van and what an inspiration you are. My wife and I have been camping and using as a works car our NV200 for the last 3 years, not a patch on yours but it has proved superb, its on about its 3rd design!now with a raised rear bed with storage below and passenger swivel, its just completed 2 months tour of France,Spain and Portugal. However, like you, we intend to spend more time touring since off loading our business and are now contemplating a bigger van to convert maybe a Ducato mid size, however we’re so reluctant to give up the NV its so cheap to run and so easy to get about. We used your site for guidance before and so now are watching to see which way you decide to go. That said as a last attempt to squeeze more room out of this great van, we are considering adding a removable side panel to allow us to sleep across which I think I’ve sorted and with the extra space this gives us I want to swivel the drivers seat but cannot find out how to either move or lower the handbrake to allow the seat to spin, I just can’t spend ยฃ400+ on a zooom design which I think rises over. Any advice?? Either way many thanks for your advice and stories, genuinely.
Hi
Thanks for the kind words!
Our drivers seat doesn’t rotate – it would not work for our build. I don’t know if its possible without Zoom… Are you on the NV200 facebook groups – loads of conversions there and I’m sure someone will know if it is possible….
Lovely to see someone else using and abusing them! Ours will get another months outing shortly….
We are seriously considering van#2 in September 2020 – life is too short to delay and all that. But we have an improved design on L2H2 which can take bikes and boards and slightly more internal room than the CAD you see on this page. Presently just designing each join in my head so I know what is doable (by me) and designing out things I can’t do. We’ll know mid next year if we’re going to as we’ll be ordering new and getting it on the Sept registration…. The NV will be 4.5 years then, but undecided what we’d do – keep or sell… Problem is its probably worth more <5yo with the Nissan warrantee than 5y1m with no warrantee.... But the bigger van would not be usable as car#2 so we'd either need another car or less work. The latter is preferred ๐ Time will tell....
Hoping you can help! I also have a Nissan NV200 but the combi version which my very clever partner (who is an electrician) is planning on connecting a leisure battery up for me but we cannot find any literature on which wire to connect to from the alternator? The split charger relay we have says to connect to either D or F wire, he’s torn between a blue and a green wire, do you happen to remember which one?!
Loving your work. I am actively looking to buy and convert a Nissan NV200.
I am inclined to buy the NV200 car version, 7 seats, as I need a back a seat for my daughter.
It’s also less van looking for the everyday use.
What are your thoughts? Would the conversion work on the van based car?
Thanks a million
Antonio
Look on Facebook for NV200 group – many people have used the combi (car) version. Be aware there is more glass, more airbags and different dash options. Also its different tax class. Van is simpler. If you need crash approved seat – only option is the OEM seats left in situ. However you can get belted seats in the rear, like us, but they are not approved (regardless of what you hear) – but they don’t’ need to be. Just be confident in how they are made/fitted. Tough call for kids… (ours vvv seldom used)
I would just like to add that I also have a propex heatsource blow heater that had the same symptons today (would not fire up) which I cured by pushing a tight fitting piece of hose up the air intake and exhaust and gave it a good blow and freed up the sticking flap inside, it now fires up first time…
Ha – I have a post on here with the same fix (blowing up the pipe). Never thought to use a clean hose pipe I always used the exhaust direct (spit). We lived with that for years, but Propex do sell an upgrade to the sensor if it becomes too much of a pain. Apparently it is a (usually) a stuck flow sensor (old ones have a windmill type that gets crudded up). New one has electronic flow sensor. Contact propex.
Hi mate do you have the measurements for the wardrobe and sink units I’m having my hair rock and roll bed made by a company in Birmingham and would really appreciate the information on the wardrobes I’ve been following your build for the last 6 months trying to get my head round the way you did it and I’m loving the way that you detailed everything in your website absolutely awesome well done mate so envious!
Oh and I’ve got an NV200 exactly the same as yours even to the colour that’s if you still have it as I see that you was going to be getting a large vehicle anyway take care and thanks for the inspiration
Hi
Yep, still have it, and still using it to the max. Van#2 is (probably) a 2020 project….
If you are ever in Wiltshire happy for guided tours. The NV is very very tight as you know, so sizing is a compromise. My sink is a CAN FL1401 I think so google that for exact dimensions. The bed frame is 100cm wide, and there is mm clearance between that and the wardrobe and that and the nearside wall. My dimensions of wardrobe may not help as it depends on what you have on either side and how you’ve lined – e.g. if I say 400mm deep, you may only have 380 if you lined it differently…..
Happy to answer anything specific – but bear in mind the answer may be correct for me, and wrong for you (trying to be helpful lol – though it reads bad!)
Haha no that’s fine mate any help I can get is a bonus as I’m a total novice in this field I’ve been looking at a company called Conwy campers who do the complete build for ยฃ6,000 and I can’t justify paying that and that’s why I’m at this stage right now I would be very interested to know how much the camper conversion cost you just for comparisons sake I actually think that given the van is exactly the same as your own I’m going to follow your build to every detail believe it or not even to the lining so I need any info on the lining would be massively appreciated Ryan..๐
Hi
I priced up car/camper/MPV and gave dimensions where needed, and from memory saw no difference. I know I called up one of the ferry companies and they didn’t seem bothered. So its gone on as camper (if same price) or car/mPV if cheaper. Never got a second look.
We are under 1.9m and a few times put on the car deck, but a few times pulled out and put with vans. Never an issue. Hope that answers
Great article! Being a Transit owner I have bookmarked your page just in case…
Very many years ago as a youth, my first experience of car ownership involved a visit to the main dealers; they lied to me, treated me like s**t, didn’t even fix the problem (I had do it myself) & charged me a fortune for the pleasure. I have avoided them like the plague ever since! Your experience with Ford doesn’t surprise me in the least.
The trouble with modern vehicles is the technology! All those sensors potentially giving false & misleading reports to the ECU. Added to which are the dealers who think they’ll make a few 100 quid out of you when they think it’s an easy job. Or who are incompetent or maybe can’t even be bothered to diagnose the problems properly, when a dedicated amateur can eventually work it out for him / herself.
Good on ya! I always like a self taught enthusiast.
Yeah, had Gaslow on the other van (but 6kg size, didn’t know they did smaller). But with solar/compressor fridge (which is free power due to solar, and easier venting for the location I want); and diesel heating, gas usage is actually quite small. A 6kg calor will last 3+ months for just cooking and water, and hence gaslow not really needed…. Depends on usage – if you have gas fridge or heating, gaslow is a no brainer!. Have to say, if I ever do need to add refillable gas, converting calor to gaslow is trivial – though I’d probably go Gas-it and a bigger underslung tank….
A tip. I have had major problems with ctek’s chargers, it seems that ctek doesn’t keep the measure right. In the past, we used expensive chargers, ctek mx7 (000) for our leisure batteries and all of a sudden, ctek thinks it is wrong with all batteries except one. when i use a china charger it works without problems. last ctek charger died without warning about the day.
This looks quite similar to what you want to build
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-MWB-Crafter-campervan/392216360019?hash=item5b51eab453:g:FTwAAOSwsqxcPQXz
Some similarities at the front and bulkhead for sure, but no bathroom in that one. Pretty good getting 2+2 and bikes in there though.
Our design hasn’t been tweaked much in the last few weeks, so we are *almost* there design wise, now just need to find where to source the specific bits ๐ Thanks for the link
Yeah – is a bit odd. The first charger I had (recommended by a supplier) whacked in 15.7v every time the fridge cut in, and took me a while to notice. Maybe that did damage? Dunno. Maybe the batteries aged? They were only ยฃ55 each…. so…โฆ.. lol
Hi Ryan. Fantastic blog am just starting an NV200 conversion using it as inspiration / guidance. Did the ctek250 need any other wiring (a D+signal) apart from the live feed from the vehicle battery to let it know when the engine was running or not?
Thanks
Mark
Forgot to say, the Euro 6 I’ve not seen, so *may* have a smart alternator and need the D+ signal wired in. Just measure V+ after a long drive and when VB is charged and see if v>14v. If so it should be fine.
Hi. Nope. I have the older D250s not the D250SA which wasn’t invented when I did it. The Euro 5 I have (2016) does not have a smart alternator so isn’t an issue. If you are the same you don’t need to worry. The ignition feed is just for the smart alternator functionality (I read the manual a few days ago lol). Mine is just as per blog, + direct to vehicle battery, + to LB’s, + to Solar, and -.
Good luck with your new project! We plan to travel to Europe for a few months and we have just realised that we can’t recharge calor outside the UK. Do you think we can just use the campingaz 2.75 bottle with the same setup?
I ordered from here: https://www.freesleep.es/gb/insulating-thermal-obscuration-internal/156-aislantes-termicos-9-capas-nissan-nv200.html#/25-insulators-cabin
You might find them here:
Gll2Design
Mike Geleletu,
3 Treffry Grove, East Taphouse, PL14 4FP, Liskeard, Cornwall,
Phone:07445089128 Email:mike@gll2design.com
I see lots of van conversions removing a section of the roof beam to allow a squarish vent to be fitted.
One thing that concerns me is the purpose of the roof beam is perhaps there to provide van shell rigidity.
Having seen so many examples of it done I guess it is OK to do this, but would be grateful for your comments on that.
I also know that some manufacturers (or their approved dealers invalidate warranties. A major national UK dealership once told me that if I was to repair a faulty window motor regulator in a Renault Scenic myself, that they would not honour the warranty on the car…. but I think they were just being “jobs worths”
Like you, I am probably going to buy a new NV200 van.
The roof struts in the NV do not appear structural – they are more anti-rattle and to give roof some ridigity if you stand on it. I was also worried, but no problem. They are just glued on – so I cut through the bar and then the glue. No issues. Its not for roll over protection or anything like that
The dealer said “anything you touch may not be covered by warrantee” which is fair enough. I explained what I was doing and they said “well if you cut a hole and it rusts its not going to be covered”. However my build deliberately didn’t touch any of the van drivetrain – apart from the diesel pick up and the battery – but no “changes” made – just my additions added.
The dealer appeared fair, understanding, and chilled. As well as being well priced – and even a ยฃ15/m service plan (which is dirt cheap).
I am hoping then that Rusty Lee would have kept the frame measurement detail for your vehicle.
I can understand your reluctance to give me the measurements because as you say, situations differ but I am going to ask for exactly what you had done; the gas strut release lever etc. So hopefully, he would still have these dimensions recorded. I assume that the NV200 load area width wouldn’t differ across model variants.
From your pictures and the known dimensions of the van, I can probably work out the width more or less. I would be planning to do as you did; i.e. position the bed, bolt temporarily to the van floor, then work the cupboard space out from that. It looks like the Offside wheel arch width and the leisure battery length subtracted from the width of the van in both the Nearside wheel arch for base width limit dimension and above bed width limit dimension.
Maybe I will wait until I get the van and start doing some careful measuring from that point.
I contacted Rusty and he gave the same price for the bed frame. I am still at the decision stage re buying an NV200
Could you give me the dimensions of the frame? L x W x D, please. I would like to put that in place temporarily before then making cupboards etc
If I opt for an NV200 I will be looking to build using your amazing conversion as a guide. The information you have freely shared is very helpful.
Thanks
Jim
Hi Jim. I’m reluctant to give you frame measurements as every van build is unique and lots of decisions were made in order to get the bed frame we did – such as what loo, front loo access, loo accessible overnight, belted seat (bolts stick out), flat front, rear NS corner cut out, what the side shape is etc. Some of those decisions affected other elements, like seat height etc. In the NV its all a compromise. An exact copy may be perfect for you, or a tweak here and there may make it better for you. FYI – I built the wardrobe after the bed was test fitted. So not the answer you want I’m afraid! If you are local you can always have a look and see what is similar and what isn’t?
Hello
Lots of poi information, but somewhat dated.
Would you know if data canbe extracted from a poi map such as pubstopovers.
If so would be great for satnav.
Regards Graham
Hi Graham.
Yes, you are right these are dated. I stopped bothering with creating them when others seemed to take the batten but then they stopped. Also tech has moved on!
Now, I subscribe to a couple of sources: campingcarinfos – and I use their app ; Wildcamping.co.uk forum (for pub spots, we use a new pub maybe every couple of months) – and archies campings.
But so many commercial people doing it and overlaps, its a minefield!
Good luck
Thank you. I was thinking either bare or through a conduit. I will also use one of them or something similar:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gas-Level-Indicator-Liquid-Level-Strip-/391488688924
No, those strips are just temperature to try and show the level. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152686612029 will go between the bottle and the regulator. This means if you turn the bottle off it will show the pressure. If needle drops in under an hour you have a leak!
I noticed a significant drop during the first night. Needle dropped nearly 10%. However I can’t smell any leak not even in the gas locker. Any suggestions? I tested all the compression fittings and I can’t see anything wrong.
That is correct, especially as the bottle gets emptier. Esp at this time of year, temp drops overnight and need drops, as it is a pressure gauge and heat/pressure are related
For leak detection which is what I was on about, leave bottle off and appliances isolated. Then the gauge will still be pressurised, and any big drop will show a leak between bottle and appliances (e.g. regulator & pipework). If drop is minimal after 24 hrs, turn each appliance isolator back on – and after 24hrs you can see if an appliance is leaking.
But with bottle open you won’t spot a leak as the pressure will be topped back up by bottle (unless leak is major and bottle empties!)
With bottle “off” and appliances off?
10% need drop in 24hrs *apparently* is nothing to worry about. On our old pro-installed system my needle did similar, and they said something like “if it drops in <1hr worry, but drops to zero overnight, don't worry".
Mine drops a bit and drops to zero over a week or so (guessing, not checked).
Hi!! Hopefully my last question to finish the project. I can see your gas pipe is running through the cupboard. Did you use any kind of housing/trunking to protect the pipe? Is it going through the batteries ‘box’ or above it? Thank you!
No – think I used a grommet to get it through the locker, but then its just loose and fixed with clips, but is bare. It does go through the battery area and I see no problem with that – it isn’t in a place where it can be damaged. I would suggest a pressure dial on the gas bottle (easy way to know if there is a leak!) and also gas-drop vent in the locker and 50mm+ bottom lip – and seal locker with sealant so any escaped gas can’t “flow” anywhere hidden – except out through the floor.
Hi, great project! My question is, the kitchen cabinet surface looks like Westfalia style. The cabineta doors and the skin itself and I couldn’t see any pictures how you made it or did you purchase it as it is? Thank you.
Hi
All totally hand made.
The top surface is really think formica (ebay) that is just spray-contact adhesive onto bare ply. the furniture board is from grasshopper lesire (I think) – voringer ply (or something like that!) – v expensve : ยฃ120 a sheet but well worth it. Bare sheets of lightweight stuff was ยฃ45 a sheet. The hinges/buttons/trim was either ebay or megavanmats or any other supplier. Its all off-the-shelf stuff. Some youtube videos I watched “how to” – but basically in scrap, make a door the size you want. then screw to more scrap and use as temoplate to make hole (I used 5mm bit) Then use that wood -with-hole as a temoplate on real board – clamp and be careful – and hey presto you have a cut out of a door and a hole (with 5mm gap for trim). Think about it. And practice ๐
See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1618-e1464115643930.jpg for the earth block (silver thing with all the black wires). This is to earth all the switches, heater, sockets and everyting else. (I mostly ran 0v nback to here for things rather than bolting to van body)
See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/DSCN1622-e1464115589811.jpg shows the black wire going the same path as the +ve – so up to the D250. Then, as mentioned, the 0v is then taken from the D250 to the van bodywork via existing bolt.
Hi
Remember the entire metal chassis is at 0v – so you can earth anywhere. I planned to use the bolt from the load-tie down hook, but (FROM MEMORY) I decided to use a common earth off the CTEK D250S – as basically the engine +12v, the solar, and the mains charger all were near by, so I think I took a cable from the D250 0v and just ran that to an exiting nut that was in the recess. Sanded down the paint a little and crimped an “o” connector over the bolt. (Used 10mm cable). And the battery 0v ran up to the D250. I also took a cable to an earth block on the 12v electric control panel side and then earthed all “devices and cables” to that. Shortest route back.
Hope some of the images make sense – may be easier to look at photo gallery around the CTEK charger and the wiring. I’m away at the moment on 4g so not able to look.
Good luck
.Then
Thank you for such an incredible blog, Iยดm buying a NV 200 and I will follow your ideas step by step. Very helpful all the great details and thanks for sharing. I will use my NV to go surfing around Spain with my 14 year old kid.
Thanks Alex, and good luck! Steal what ideas you can, but do remember everyone is different ๐ You can get roofracks for the NV for your surfboards. Just put in the basics and enjoy to the max!
I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RACE-SPEC-Bucket-Seat-Slide-Rails-Runners-Glides-Corbeau-Cobra-Rally-Kit-Car/260979541387?hash=item3cc397c58b:g:64AAAMXQY8JRggPP which aren’t 450mm – but work well and has enough movement in the van. I’d say the runners were “perfect size” to be honest. No issues with them at all. I went for “race spec” as I wanted something strong as they are important lol.. The only pain is the width between runners as the provided handle doesn’t work and I had to make my own – and that was a pain.
Best I could find……
Hi Ryan and Mel. Regarding seat runners did you try scrap yards?.
and do you know what nissan car use’s same runners.
I am building a nv 200 camper and have same problem
Nope. I didn’t try scrap. I don’t believe the NV passenger seat has runners anyway? So you’d probably need a drivers seat and even then they fit to the “legs” rather than the base where the plate goes… I’m sure there is an easy fix for this, but I didn’t find it
How long were the runners you used? I don’t seem to be able to find any matching JDR/seat runners on ebay. Most seat runners seem to be approx 340mm. The FASP swivel seat plate requires at least 450mm runner. Great write up btw, super useful!
Good spot!
We really struggled here, I installed the seat with an engineering customer with most bolts known to man, and they didn’t have any, nor did a couple of specialist suppliers on the industrial estate. As we were doing it there and then we didn’t look online. But anyone who prepares in advance should check your link as they do look right (and rated at 10.9 which is important)
Thanks for making me and others aware
Hi.
The panel is slightly raised on the brackets (but still lower than the skylight), and under there I have a waterproof box bonded to the roof, and the cables go into the rear side of that then into a hole through there inside the van. The hole is between the wooden bulkhead (where all the switches are) and the internal wardrobe wall – so it can’t be seen internally. Hope that helps
Thank you very much. It’s very helpful. Finally I managed to find time to start this conversion. Do you know/remember the height of the aluminium brackets?
Glad to help. Still stand by the advice, though I did buy an inverter last week as my 12v laptop power supply failed and it was easier to get a small inverter to power the 240v power supply I had by chance lol – rather than seek out a 12v special one for this laptop which, in northern Norway was impossible.
But kettle and the like – gas is the only viable option
You’ll never guess what Ryan, I’ve only been and gone and bought another Innovation! An ’08 Innovation 3, 110PS with 45k miles. I hope I’m going to enjoy sorting it out.
It’s going back to the dealer on Monday as they sold it with 105 year old original tyres on the back, the chair blows baking hot, not chilled and the n/s audio speaker is silent.
It had to have a new exhaust last week because it fell apart near home at the end of our first proving trip. Dealer paying.
Good few other bits need rattling but for a 10 year old, it’s in fair nick.
Just an update. DO NOT copy the idea for the pull-out filler.
Twice now, the blue filler pipe (Cak tanks) has split. Its not because its tight, but for some reason it splits where it moves (e.g. bends straight, then bends back). So it seems to be OK when static, even at tight angles, but when it moves it must weaken it quite a lot.
Fortunately when testing everything and cleaning the tanks we noticed (not hard when loads of water pours into the cupboard).
So now plan B – we now fill from the same filler, but fixed and accessible from the offside door. Good job we have 2x sliding doors! ๐
A credit to you, it’s very heartening to see that some people like to share knowledge and experience. That’s what this world should be about.
Fabulous.
Love your blog and am most impressed with the professional feel to it. We are caravanners with 40 overseas trips behind us gained since we gratefully joined the “scrapheap” when our industries were privatized, more modest itineraries than yours but we have camped in 12 countries for 4 months a year and want to continue as long as possible. Couldn’t agree more with your sentiments about living for today.
The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <ยฃ1k - maybe ยฃ550-600 for frame, ยฃ350-400 for upholstery.
TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.
Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….
I guessed that was what it was but was unsure as it must have taken a bit of cuttting to get a uniforn decent edge, especially on the tight corners. I have looked at different options as I think it is so difficult to get a neat carpet edge no matter how good my cutting skills are. I have some samples of thin rubber U edging on their way to me which “may” be a solution, I will let you know how I get on.
Please do!
Just FYI, I used rubber trim on other bits, and getting it to stick wasn’t great – my contact-adhesive just refused to stick to it. But, if you’ve got rubber trim that you can stuck, I reckon that’ll be 10x better – so looking forward to hearing. Good luck
Loving the blog.
I am in process of converting my NV200 at the moment.
Question for you….
I notice that you seem to have fixed silver thermal insulation to all metal surfaces first around the windows and the top section of the sliding doors etc and then you fixed the carpet on top of that. Did you do this all over and if so what is the advantage over just fixing lining carpet to these areas?
Hi
Good question.
I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
Hope this helps?
Hi Ryan and Mel, thnak you so much for your knowledgeable website! I’ve been told that if I don’t have a pop top (which I don’t, as I’m a keen stealth campervanner!) There won’t be enough room for adults to sit on the back seats comfortably, as there will only be 82cm from seat to roof. Do you find that, is that why you had the skylight? Thanks for any advice you’ve got
Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room ๐
But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.
Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.
We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.
If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.
Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.
Hi,just done my waterpump and pas pump,i done it the easy way.Remove both headlights,front bumper,crossmember and front panel,all bolt on.Unclip radiator top,bottom and over flow hoses and swing radiator to the side and you are there,easily accessible.All done in the afternoon,dismantled and back together,might be worth trying.It worked for me,cheers for now.
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From Ryan and Mel on Self Build Campervan/Motorhome index
Go to comment2019/04/16 at 5:09 pm
From nicky edgeler on Fixing Malaga 3 hot water heater ignitor/burner
Go to comment2019/04/14 at 10:48 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Fixing Malaga 3 hot water heater ignitor/burner
Go to comment2019/04/15 at 8:16 am
From nicky edgeler on Fixing Malaga 3 hot water heater ignitor/burner
Go to comment2019/04/15 at 8:32 pm
From nicky edgeler on Fixing Malaga 3 hot water heater ignitor/burner
Go to comment2019/04/14 at 2:44 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Fixing Malaga 3 hot water heater ignitor/burner
Go to comment2019/04/14 at 2:46 pm
From Robert Hardy on Van #2 Inspiration
Go to comment2019/03/29 at 12:47 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Van #2 Inspiration
Go to comment2019/03/29 at 1:01 pm
From jamie Zimmer on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1
Go to comment2019/03/13 at 7:06 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1
Go to comment2019/03/13 at 7:10 am
From jamie Zimmer on NV200: Wardrobe and furniture #1
Go to comment2019/03/13 at 4:28 pm
From Mark on Home to Bergen
Go to comment2019/02/27 at 4:25 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Home to Bergen
Go to comment2019/02/28 at 2:30 am
From Rob on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!
Go to comment2019/02/19 at 7:19 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!
Go to comment2019/02/20 at 8:43 am
From Mark on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2019/02/02 at 10:32 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2019/02/02 at 10:37 pm
From Joakim Eriksson on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing
Go to comment2019/01/21 at 5:11 pm
From Zack on Design of Van #2
Go to comment2019/01/17 at 10:59 am
From Ryan and Mel on Design of Van #2
Go to comment2019/01/17 at 11:27 am
From Lowie Van Ermen on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2019/01/14 at 2:24 pm
From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2019/01/17 at 9:25 am
From Gerry McLaughlan on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing
Go to comment2019/01/07 at 7:47 pm
From Ryan and Mel on Leisure Battery Issues & Testing
Go to comment2019/01/07 at 7:54 pm
From Mark Russell on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2019/01/05 at 4:36 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2019/01/05 at 4:43 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2019/01/05 at 4:39 pm
From MQ on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/12/27 at 10:00 pm
From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/10/12 at 4:00 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/10/12 at 5:05 pm
From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/10/31 at 10:53 am
From Lowie Van Ermen on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2019/01/14 at 2:46 pm
From Graham on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/11/10 at 10:11 am
From MQ on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/11/19 at 1:39 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Curtains and blinds
Go to comment2018/11/10 at 2:17 pm
From Jim on NV200: Fitting skylight
Go to comment2018/10/12 at 12:58 pm
From JIm on NV200: Fitting skylight
Go to comment2018/10/11 at 10:11 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting skylight
Go to comment2018/10/11 at 10:25 pm
From Jim on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!
Go to comment2018/10/07 at 7:00 pm
From Jim Monaghan on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!
Go to comment2018/10/07 at 1:08 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!
Go to comment2018/10/07 at 2:07 pm
From Graham May on GPS POIs Hosted by us
Go to comment2018/09/26 at 10:00 am
From Ryan and Mel on GPS POIs Hosted by us
Go to comment2018/09/26 at 10:25 am
From Mike on Week 7 โ Lake Garda to Home
Go to comment2018/09/25 at 7:34 pm
From MQ on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/09/10 at 12:16 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/09/10 at 1:30 pm
From MQ on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/10/01 at 7:45 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/10/01 at 9:14 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/10/01 at 8:37 am
From MQ on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/10/01 at 9:07 am
From MQ on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/09/10 at 11:42 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Gas locker
Go to comment2018/09/10 at 11:46 am
From Aras on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2
Go to comment2018/09/04 at 7:30 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen & furniture #2
Go to comment2018/09/04 at 6:35 pm
From Camplife on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2018/09/01 at 12:10 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2018/09/02 at 9:11 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Getting 12v engine feed to rear
Go to comment2018/09/02 at 9:03 am
From angela carr on NV200: Van complete - final pics and video
Go to comment2018/08/26 at 5:11 pm
From Alejandro Miranda on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)
Go to comment2018/08/18 at 9:23 am
From Ryan and Mel on 2019 and 2020 plans (and more)
Go to comment2018/08/18 at 10:27 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/18 at 7:59 am
From john bellis on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/28 at 11:05 pm
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/29 at 8:30 am
From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/18 at 12:21 am
From Glyn Hudson on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/15 at 2:47 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting swivel plate and runners to passenger seat
Go to comment2018/08/15 at 8:31 am
From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels
Go to comment2018/07/13 at 11:21 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels
Go to comment2018/07/15 at 7:07 am
From Zak on NV200: Fitting Solar Panels
Go to comment2018/07/18 at 4:10 pm
From Phil on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?
Go to comment2018/06/14 at 10:21 am
From Ryan and Mel on Do you need an inverter (240v) in a van?
Go to comment2018/06/15 at 11:44 am
From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips
Go to comment2018/06/09 at 7:12 pm
From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips
Go to comment2018/06/09 at 7:10 pm
From Andy Hale on Backpacking Hints & Tips
Go to comment2018/06/09 at 7:08 pm
From Elina on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics
Go to comment2018/05/30 at 10:52 am
From Ryan and Mel on NV200: Kitchen drawer and internal water tank filler
Go to comment2018/05/07 at 9:11 am
From Michael Shelley on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics
Go to comment2018/03/31 at 10:54 am
From BLOG on NV200: Fitting towbar and electrics
Go to comment2018/03/31 at 11:05 am
From David Willdigg on About Us
Go to comment2018/02/26 at 4:28 pm
From AL RICHARDSON on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!
Go to comment2018/02/20 at 8:06 pm
From BLOG on NV200: Seat and Bed is here (Rusty lee rock n roll)!
Go to comment2018/02/20 at 8:55 pm
From Rocky on NV200: More door lining
Go to comment2018/02/19 at 9:50 pm
From BLOG on NV200: More door lining
Go to comment2018/02/19 at 10:36 pm
From Rocky on NV200: More door lining
Go to comment2018/02/21 at 1:33 am
From BLOG on NV200: More door lining
Go to comment2018/02/21 at 8:11 am
From Rocky on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space
Go to comment2018/02/19 at 2:09 pm
From BLOG on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space
Go to comment2018/02/19 at 2:22 pm
From Rocky on NV200: Insulating, lining, and making use of hidden space
Go to comment2018/02/21 at 1:29 am
From Craig bray on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!
Go to comment2018/02/15 at 9:40 am
From BLOG on Ford Transit TDCi, low power, low boost (p0235) - Fixed!
Go to comment2018/02/15 at 9:47 am
From Amy G on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed
Go to comment2018/02/01 at 2:47 pm
From BLOG on NV200: Fitting Rock n Roll bed
Go to comment2018/02/01 at 3:44 pm
From andrew inglefield on How to change water pump on 2L FWD Transit
Go to comment2018/01/28 at 8:58 pm