Well here’s another Transit water pump victim! At least I think….
The belt snapped on the motorway, and the engine over heated straight away. Bought a new belt, put it on and it went again in like 5 seconds. So my best guess is one of the pumps have gone. I now have bought a brand new water pump and a second belt (4PK735) just to find out the power steering pump can be the problem instead of the water pump. What a sh.tty construction to fix two pumps together! I know for fact I could drive the van without power steering, but as they work together one couldn’t just disconnect the steering pump. So I hope it is in fact the water pump that is blocked, but with my luck I probably bought the wrong part, and need a new power steering pump instead. But we’ll see, thanks to this site I now know how it’s all bolted together, so I’ll give it a go. I just wonder if there would be a way to fix the power steering pump so that the belt will operate the water pump without the power steering. I mean, if the bearings of the PS pump have gone there is still a way to drive the water pump. Otherwise I will have to buy another PS pump too….
Well it turned out to be the PAS pump, and not the water pump in my case. It ran dry, and it blocked causing the water pump to block too. So now Im stuck with a brand new water pump I don’t need, and a Transit that is still not running.
And indeed what a horrible job it is to get to it!
Trying to find a cheap pump now a get the thing back on the road!
Hmm, not ‘an English couple’; at least, not both of us. 🙂
Was great meeting you both, and we’ll be following your travels on the blog. Hope the knees hold out.
Hey, I’m about to do the same job, but my first idea was to take out the radiator and go via the front, instead of the top (and having to removing the airintake etc).
Wouldn’t that be easier?
I’m no expert, but the air intake bit is maybe 30 mins tops- and cleaning the intake isn’t a bad idea anyway. The forums suggested removing radiator and even front of van (!) but I did neither. If I did it again I’d do the same as I did, and looking at other comments here that worked for others. If you go radiator route – let us know how it goes and how long it takes
Hi Ryan, I followed your guide. I came all the way to ’10 – Remove water pump’.
And then I just couldn’t reach the bottom right bold.
Even with a small wrench and a knee I couldn’t make it (the angle was to steep for a wrench and knee, almost 90 degrees).
Very frustrating, I had to put everything back…
From 6 weeks to South of France - leaving van behind!!!! - Page 2 - MotorhomeFun
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Bike Preparation
[…] http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/2014/04/bike-preparation/ Specialized Hardrock Pro disk & Myka Elite – so hard tail mountain bikes (!). Really, apart from servicing them, just swapping the tyres to almost slick, sticking a pannier rack, and suspension seat post and gel saddle – not a lot… The route we're taking is mainly cycle routes – and most of that looks off road. I'd say 85% marked cycle routes (if not more) – and 80-90% of that "off road". Longer (by 40%) than direct D roads, but looks far prettier. Full route is on blog (zoomable with google street map integration). Not taking maps. Just following GPS track on the phone 🙂 […]
Thanks very much Ryan and Mel. My water pump gave up yesterday and after getting a quote for £300 to have the job done decided to have a look on the Internet and have a go myself. I have no experience at all with mechanics but thanks to your detailed instructions managed it pretty easily, took a good 7 hours but very satisfied by the end. Once again thanks for taking the time to put all that in writing. Legends
Pleasure Mark!
Comments like that make it all worthwhile
It was my first time too, and my researched helped me, so thought I’d “pay back”.
Lets hope you don’t need my other FAQ on turbos 🙂
been charged £850 to supply and fit
what u think?
how much electric does it consume a year? in pounds?
i have a big mould and black condensation problem
I’m only another customer, so can’t say as every install is different and may take a while to do depending on access etc. Seems a bit steep though as its <£400 for item and other parts, so £450 labour... Depends how long it takes. Took me probably 3-4 hours?
As for how much cost to run, again depends on your settings. My costs are listed in main post.
Just wanted to say thanks to Ryan for this blog, it helped persuade me to purchase a drymaster heat which has been running since early December. My house suffered really bad with surface condensation on windows, walls, behind furniture, mold etc. Thought I had rising damp at one point but after research and reading this blog heard about PIV. All I can say is that this system has totally cured our problem. Since installing I have not ONCE had to wipe down windows at all. This is amazing as our windows were normally saturated every morning in the winter months. I cleaned all the mold off the ceilings and walls after a week of installing the unit and to my amazement it has not come back whatsoever. The house feels fresher as all the stale air is constantly pushed out of the house so it is just a nicer environment. I will mention that you will notice the landing will be a bit colder due to the fresh air being pumped into the house, I could turn on the heater but have not felt the need so far. For people asking about settings it depends on your house, installation and severity of problem, I have a 4 bed house and suffered terribly, I initially had it on setting 4 but have recently turned it down to 3 and it is still working fine. I have also been able to turn down the heating thermostat as its so much quicker to heat the house due to much lower moisture.
I got a sparky to fit it and it was real simple for him. I purchased a heavy duty chain and hook from screw fix for £10 and hung mine from the rafters, it really works well and means no vibration. I would recommend anyone buying one to do the same. I also like Ryan run the heater off a different switch in my airing cupboard, that way if I need the heater on its simple to do without climbing into the loft.
I really can not say enough good about this system and for anyone wondering if it really works, it really does. Would I buy one again, 100%
Hi Darren. Thanks for your comment – really good to hear. We still have a zero issue (even with windows closed) – but as it is a bit of a snake-oil product, I am pleased to hear firsthand that it is helping someone and isn’t just luck. We also tuned our heat recovery settings, so whilst the heater is on when its cold, when the sun is out the heater clicks off and the fan speeds up sucking the heat out of the loft space – and that does help.
Thanks again for making an effort to post here.
My son installed a nuaire drimaster heat for me. Could u tell me what settings it should be on plz. It is very cold on my landing. I live in a 3 bedroom semi detached house. Thankyou
I would try setting 3. If any sides of the diffuser are very close to a wall (less than about half a meter) I would also block that side of the diffuser off with the provided sponge blockers, it will then divert the air out of the other sides and should reduce the cold air running down the walls which may be why you are feeling the cold. Just a thought.
I’ve installed a drimaster heat. Could you tell me what settings it should be on please. The upstairs landing is really cold, a lot lot colder than it was before I installed it. I live in a 3 bedroom semi detached house. Thankyou
Really grateful for all of your info Ryan/Mel. I’ve just been quoted £800 to have one of these installed in a three-bed standard terraced house!!! Thanks to you, I’m going to buy a unit myself and have my (fully qualified) electrician install it for me.
Thanks again from (Fellow Motorhomer) James
hi Ryan-Mel
there is so much info attached to this link i will save it and be sure to refer to it for help in the future i have a mondeo mk3 tdci 2.0 130psi 2005 model about 6 mths 145,000mls fully serviced good history i would appreciate if you could help me to narrow down a problem
your thoughts would be great full
last week the glow plug light came on and the turbo shut down temperature gauge runs below normal it has an electric actuator which i have opened and all looks good it moves one postion when engine start but just remains still after that the turbo arm and veins are working as should egr/manifold cleaned is open/closing all pipes are good diagnostic report said turbo boost controller apart from the actuator would the map sensor cause lost of boost or any other parts relating to boost control just trying to eliminate small cost first you no yourself
happy travelling 2014 thanks
regards chris
Thanks for your comment, but I am sadly not a mechanic I’m a DIYer who correlated the information I needed from the internet to help me.
I know nothing about an electric actuator – only the vacuum one. But I would say, can you compare against another Mondeo of same spec? I really can’t comment on how it behaves vs. the van engine.
You really need a specific code from the computer. The MAP (or T-MAP) sensor can read wrong and prevent boost – e.g. if the sensor is unplugged, the ECU probably won’t request boost. That should be easy to check with F-SUPER or some other Ford compatible code reader. You can take the map sensor out, make sure its clean, and pressurise it (e.g. I attached some pipe and a bike pump!) – and then the ECU reading would change by valid amounts. So this showed it worked and hte wiring was fine. On the transit, wiring faults are “common” – but if the ECU is reporting correct values then the wiring works.
But the exact error code is needed, then google that on both the transit and mondeo forums
Hi. See http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/campervan/ourvan-php/detailed-review-cavarno-2/ and http://www.doyourdream.co.uk/campervan/ourvan-php/ for more details on the van. It is a lot more compact than most, and is the smallest you can get with everything in it- hot water; shower; loo; fridge etc. I’d not say its a basic van conversion, far from it. We have a digital aerial but not satellite. We did carry a dish, but we really find when we’re out and about we’re glad not to watch TV! We take movies and box-sets but glad not to care about the news! We don’t have solar, but the onboard batteries last ages – our 6-7 week trip around Denmark was totally without mains power and driving was enough to charge. Batteries last maybe 2 weeks without driving. Hope this is useful!
Perhaps you’ve said elsewhere, but what is the make and model and type of campervan?
Are you equipped with all the extras like sattelite and solar like the hymers etc, or is it more of a basic van conversion?
Thanks for the comments made regarding your Thailand Trip. We saw your write up on the Groovy Bungalows in trip advisor and then checked your web site for more info. The info.will be helpful in planning our trip. Thanks.
i just installed the unit today the way i wired the unit is on two separate fuse spurs one for the main unit and one for the heater. Son one fuse spur switches the main unit on/off and the other one switches the heater on/off. Can you please confirm this is OK??
I am not qualified to give you advice – this page just shows how I did it. I did it differently – my heater fused spur is off the main fused spur. Thus the main switch turns and isolates everything; and the second switch isolates just the heater. Current draw etc taken into account. This is my way – not giving advice nor saying which is better. I am not qualified to advise.
Thanks i spoke to Nuaire today and they confirmed it can be wired both ways. One more thing Ryan how can i check if my heater is working? there is a red light in the control box which flashes when i switch the heater on. does the red light means the heater is on??
I don’t actually know – I always had the cover on when linked up to the mains! 🙂 Its easy to check if you watch a “power meter” as it’ll drop about 450W when its on!
Hello to everyone interested in this post, we are west Yorkshire based specialist remedial company(www.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.com) who supply and install the Nuaire Drimaster Heat and other Nuaire Products, i can only praise this unit as this works with great performance where condensation has become problematic, we have been installing this unit over the last 4 years and have never had one complaint or criticism.If you are in two minds if to install this in your property i can only advise to go ahead and you will not be disappointed, please use a reputable installer that fully understands the product and also understands the property and severity of the condensation problem so the unit can be set up to deliver its best performance,if you live in the Yorkshire or surrounding areas and require further advice or a quotation for installation please do not hesitate to contact us further.
Hi
I’m only a DIYer who did mine – not able to help 🙁
But, 7yrs is it – blimey. It still works perfectly and we’ve had no issues since install
Good luck
NOTE FROM DYD: Thanks for your comments Steve – but as you didn’t have the courtesy to ask first I have deleted reference to your company as this is not for free advertising for any old company who spams my blog. I’ve left your comments though as they may be useful to readers
Hi
It was trivial – the heater is pretty much entirely separate – it can be added separately and is fully independent from the main unit – the thermostat and control is in the heater, not the drimaster.
So I had
what an excellent article! I’ve an early Mondeo mk3 TDCi, and your info with photos is a really useful and excellent reference for me and undoubtedly many others. Thank you for sharing this good stuff 🙂
Hi mate, just a couple of comments having done this job this week using your excellent notes as a guide. First, the hole on the tensioner is for a 1/4 drive ratchet to go in, makes it a one-handed, 5-second job levering the tensioner off. It’d be good if you could put that note on the instructions. Second, the “coolant engine sensor” attached to the waterpump is better described as the oil cooler thermostat. Reason I say this is that sensor implies wires are attached to it and it caused me a panicky few minutes when I couldn’t find the wires I was looking for!
just wanted to share my experience fitting a Nuaire Flatmaster with everyone, this could happen when fitting a Nuaire Drimaster too!
I had been quoted £980.00 + VAT from Envirovent and £780.00 + VAT from a Nuaire fitting company. Both prices sounded reasonable but I did a bit of research and found I could buy a Flatmaster on Google with a heater for £320.00 + VAT so I went ahead and purchased it.
The unit arrived the next day, I was then shocked by the complexity of fitting it, which needed to be sighted in a central location and an input vent cut through the wall and various ducting installed.
This was too much for me, so I called Nuaire and they recommended an installation service but he wanted £600!
The solution was obvious call in a local contractor; I looked on Google and found a PCA approved company who was a damp and condensation specialist.
They sent around Miguel (with an invoice of £400.00 + VAT) he sat on the floor and opened the box and read the instructions then proceeded to cut a hole through my wall to install the inlet. The mess was so bad, dust everywhere! He said it was the only way. He then spent time installing the ducting and finally wired in the unit to the main ring. I asked him if he was qualified and said we are Part P approved.
He blew all the MCBs and I could smell burning at that point I showed Miguel the door with his unpaid invoice.
I contacted Nuaire again who gave me condensationcontrol-uk.com phone number who I called, they fixed the wiring and sorted the fan.
They told me installers should be BPEC this is an industry regulation relating to ventilation products.
The summary of the story is always use a proper company or it will lead to problems like I had and even invalidating your insurance by having an unsafe unit fitted.
Thanks for this post completed job on my own in 4 hrs….its a pig to get to…..used a new after market pump for £30.00 inc post , lube, gaskets from ebay.
thanks again, u should go into competition with Haynes manuels……
Hi. Just wondering after 6 months what your impression is of the Drimaster now? We are thinking of installing one in our solid stone walled house that suffers with inevitable damp issues. Any feedback would be welcome. Thanks.
I have sold our old T25 VW and bought a similar van to yours, I found your site very useful.
I also bought from Roy Wood Transits. I live in Maidenhead so easy access. I have been after a couple of vehicles they’ve advertised but been unable to collate the funds in time to purchase until now. I collect it on Monday a 56 plate. I will mention your site when I pick it up.
Your skill at putting this wealth of knowledge on the internet is to be admired.
I am 60 my wife is 59, we consider ourselves “computer literate”. However, I would have loved to share our wisdom gathered from converting our ex bakers van from Barnes into a campervan and modifying it along the way. I never had to advertise the van for sale, I had a list of people who had approached me intent on buying it.
I am currently in the research stage of realising my dream to undertake full-time motorhoming for at least a couple of years. There are numerous sites and blogs of people living their dream, but I must say your site is the most informative and comprehensive site I have come across to date. I will no doubt come back to it many times. Keep up the good work.
From Nantes to La Rochelle 187-396 miles on Cycle tour, North to South France
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