Comments

Hi
I made them all from scratch using standard 15mm lightweight furniture board. (see my van#2 too for similar).
I’m only an ok DIYer – it wasn’t as tough as I imagined – indeed I’d say 90% of the build time was other stuff, the furniture was pretty quick….

Hi
Sorry for delay, this site spammed it.
I made it…..
See https://www.doyourdream.co.uk/2016/04/nv200-fitting-cab-curtain-rail/ which may help you

hi
Sorry for delay, this site spammed it.
The heater I used a turrret plate, ebay, manyu sizes available. And lots of stixall as sealant/glue to hold it in place. Does not need to be heat resistant, it does not get hot – the exhaust does but that is well clear of the plate and the heat does not transfer. Of course, exhaust/inlet and external, facing away from teh van, and away from each other, and exhaust near the edge. Was a tight fit. Biggest problem was not making the hole big enough and having to bodge it. Get a turret plate, then the correct size hole saw and do it once, neatly.
Hope that helps

It worked really well – try it 🙂

Hi
The bed was 100 x 165 (but then used loo with cushion to extend). Small & tight, yes, but the only way it was workable in the nv200.
The units – sorry can’t recall, but watch my finished video it explains how tight it all was and tricks used.

Hi (Sorry – message spammed – WordPress is getting very tetchy!)
No measurements, and all pics are in the public onedrive (see top of page).
Only a 2kw heater will fit. I used a turret plate (needed) – and literally just located the heater where I thought it’d fit, then drilled a small centre hole to locate it and check. I made a bit of a dogs dinner, buy the right sized hole cutter!

Hi, which van?
The NV was 100×160 – so small, but all a compromise! Used loo as a stool (!) at the end. Worked fine and better than it sounds.
The Ducato is 120 x 180
Mattress is just seat foam, and we use 2x duvets, one summer, one winter, and just have one on top and one on bottom depending on weather.

Hi
I just poked it over the fuel tank towards the cab, and the pump is mounted externally on the chassis rail (with fuel filter) – and then just straight up into heater

Hi, sorry, my spam filter blocked loads of posts.
I have sold the NV200 on but will try and help
1 – just do your best. I covered all with thermoliner (7mm foam with high temp adhesive + silver back) – and did what I could. I stuffed dacron where I could and covered with thermoliner and ensured that was taped – so any condensation had to stay “on” the thermoliner and not behind. Seemed to work OK – never noticed any issues
2 – Yes, made a “tube” out of the bubble wraap and sealed that to the door. I left the door as bare metal as thats what it’d be normally, and ensured there was free flow to the bottom of the door.

Again, all I can say is in 200 nights we owned it, never had any signs of condensation or water ingress, and it would’ve shown on the carpet – so it worked well for me.

Hope that helps

Sorry, my spam filter caught this.
My info was getting more and more out of date and there are now good apps – Park4Night and Search4Sites and, maybe, Archies. These have all sites, pictures, pricing and are far more up to date and accurate. Check those out.
Sorry for delay 🙁

Hi
Sorry, this comment was spammed. I need to tweak the spam setting!
India will be a challenge, but speeds slower – should be OK. I’ve ridden a bike in SE Asia and got used to ignoring signs lol – and also bribinh police…. Hmmm. In Italy at the moment on a long van trip and I think its a good basis for India! (blog will be updated when we retun)
Mel doing “ok” on ebike and kick scooter, but no improvements. Can’t drive or walk far, so its a different type of trip than normal. We have appointments with various people when we get back so live in hope!
Could be worse.
(Sad to admit, we also appeared in MMM in our first van! 🙂

Yeah – tough on isn’t it! I’m addicted to Diagnose Dan on YouTube – worth watching a few – thats how expert diagnosers should be. Sadly, most aren’t 🙁

Hi
I think it helped with the pax seat and also access to drivers seat, so we were able to use that for putting things (like clothes) on.
Also I don’t think the loo would work with the bulkhead in place. And of course the extra light. For camping, best removed. For making do… may be ok! good luck

Thanks for kind comments
You could do a sliding window above the kitchen units rather than a tilt?
The lounge area is rectangular so the rest could be swapped – so kitchen on the offside and wardrobe/shower on the near side. The wardrobe would come out as far as the worktop (without the flip up shelf). Though the flip up shelf would be over the sofa. Deffo doable – and I can’t forsee any insurmountable issues. Hot & cold; 240v and 12v is present in both kitchen and bathroom so same plumbing. Garage also needs to be reversed but again not insurmountable. Fixed beds are great but take up room. IMO our layout gives better garage and better living area, but obviously not fixed bed. You need to balance your desires – you can’t do everything! We use the view through the sliding door – its a great view! (Mostly)

Will email you direct

I have to say, I don’t know. But I know there are differences on the hinge mountings, so rear windows can differ if the hinge is a full 270′ hinge. So there would be a quite a few changes for it to be the same as OEM, hinge, door, stays, support etc. Can a DIY solution work? Don’t know. Sorry, best I can offer…

Hi, thanks. Hope the info was useful. We went from bigger van to NV200 and the plan was always a 5 years van/2nd car – so we would not feel guilty going off backpacking or cycle camping months on end leaving a full size camper at home. THe NV for us worked very well and we did 6wk trips mostly wildcamping with no issues. It was perfect. However, the NV was designed to get somewhere, get out and about all day, and use it as a kitchen/bathroon/bedroom. It wasn’t ideal for a lounge but then that wasn’t its purpose. Sadly, wifey has a foot issue (2ys ongoing) meaning going out walking/biking all day is not possible and she/we need to lounge around and sit inside/outside van lounging. So after a backpacking trip to Taiwan was cancelled in Feb ’20 (covid) we brought the bigger van forward and built it in lockdowns. Earlier than planned but that was the only reason – and yep, we use it on “sites and rallies” sitting outside and not out and about as much. We’ve seen the NV out with new owners and they use it with an awning and use it differently and more site usage etc – do is/was actually viable in that use if used differently. Could not fault it – not for everyone but we had lots of fun. We’d not have built van2 yet if Mel was fixed and no covid…… New van v different in size and budged! Full build is on here and mostly YouTube.

Good luck!
I do hear the occassional good story of just “diesel specialists” – like man-in-van who only do diesel diagnostics…. No experience of any but consider that too. Diesel engines are fairly simple on one hand, its just the specifics and tuning that makes them complex! So a good guy would be clued up. (For the new van, 2.3 Ducato, Ill be buying the full OBD interfaces and software! Ford aren’t experts sadly, just (IME) barely trained technicians with zero diagnostic skills (a good diagnoser would’ve found fault in 15 mins using the Ford IDS software correctly: Think Turbo issue eh? “Actuate turbo”. Hmm didn’t move. But the solenoid clicked. Check vacuum (OK). Solenoid (OK). Hmmm Tube blocked? Oh………. But only diagnositics was code read (MAP pressure wrong, no shit) – needs a new intercooler/MAP sensoer. (Despite me saying I’ve had the sensor off and validated readings on ECU). Shocking. GOOD LUCK! 🙂

Its tight! But doable.

Wow – you are right! The seller was robrob444 – https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/robrob444 – but they do not seem to have anything for sale today, but seems to have had feedback in the last month – https://www.ebay.co.uk/fdbk/feedback_profile/robrob444?lb=1 – so may be worth contacting them – may just be a case of them waiting for stock. Still no complaints with it – works well still

Hi
No idea on the specific sealant I’m afraid, and it was a long time ago!
I think you are over thinking the boiler! If its the same model (do check!) then it has 13L of water. Its not a complex beast – but if after 1hr of heating it only has 6L of hot water, then the issue cannot be gas or boiler function as it just has one area for water.
I’d check for air locks in the boiler – it may be due to pipework keeping 7L of air in the boiler and you are only heating 6 of water? Or your tap is knackered and not pulling off the hot water.
I’m no expert, but I cant think of anything in the boiler gas/flame side that would only heat 6L? After 1hr any “near” water would get hot by conduction anyway.
Good luck!

Good luck! There is an NV200 facebook group where others have done similar and different, and so many ways of doing it. Make it your own and enjoy! Good luck

?! Thanks. I think

Thanks!

Sorry, no, sold it after removal

Hi
I bought the DEDICATED wiring kit from PF Jones – this is plug n play e.g. remove plug to light cluster, and plug “box” between the wire and the cluster. This makes no change to the van wiring so is safe and “invisible” to the van. Does need 12v feed which was the hardest thing to get lol – see my video. You can use bypass relays but they are the cheap n cheerful way, more work, and more prone to damaging van wiring, and could cause warrantee type issues
good luck

Good luck – anything is possible 🙂

I ended up using https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334027486456 and putting it through a whole in the top with stainless self tapper screws and also fix-all as a sealant around the top. Works well and is air tight. I’m then using quick release connector, like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234041125006 to allow the tank to be removed for filling

Hi
Sorry, your comment was spammed for some reason! Yes, you need to go to https://www.misterg.org.uk/camper-converters-socket.html and read that. That is well written and covers the socket. The only pain is getting the terminal for the +12v feed but the info on teh page is accurate. We are only using +12v, KEY+ and D+ wires (KEY+ and D+ to run a relay to give +12v on “my” D+) – MrG block will explain all. My 0v Im taking direct from chassis. Just be aware D+ is actually “0v on active” whereas things (B2B, step, tracker etc) expect “+12v on active” hence the relay
Hope this answers q – good luck!
(PS layout works really well in the real world!)

Not quite a year, but the van is finished and heavy – and the air suspension is doing well – no issues at all with the kit and to be fair I do not envisage any. the brackets are “perfect” and substantial, and the bags are branded and I assume replacable. Van drives really well (considering) and glad I did it. The kit I do like and would recommend, but I would say a dual gauge (indpendant) setup is the better way to go and worth the small increase in cost. I’m aware of a few others who have copied me (lol) and all seem happy too. I would say, do it sooner rather than later – the toughest part is removing the old bump-stop/cone/suspension helper – on mine, new van, easy. On an old van the captive nut can rust and break off leaving with you a challenge. Google it – same issue affects all kits and is van related not kit. If old, consider spraying with magic penetrating lube stuff a day before 🙂 Good luck

Hi. In the NV we used CAN1501 sink, but that was no longer available, so in the Ducato we used Smev 9722. The former is easier to install; the latter has more following and hence more spares available. For sure, both are good enough. In the new van, we could’ve gone bigger as the smev is really a campervan setup (not motorhome) – but our CAD looked tight so we went with the 9722. Its fine, but we could’ve gone bigger and possibly should’ve – but equally, having space around it is damn useful too! So depends on your use. No grill/oven works well – get a ridgemonkey. So yes, possibly would use the same again, but may also look at slightly bigger now we know there is room – but its good enough not to consider changing. Hope that answers q?

PS – I should add, I’ve seen kits with single dial and a valve to select which side, but I didn’t like this approach – I want to see both sides pressure at all times

Hi
Yes, the kit I have would’ve come with a “T” piece and the bellows would be the same pressure. However, also, on cornering, air from the one under most pressure could go to the other via the “T”. So, IMO, having a split system will be more stable. (I asked the supplier on ebay to supply 2nd gauge which they did).
Really happy with it, and the price, and the build quality of the brackets (and branded bellows). I know a few others have bought the same after me and all been happy.
Easy to fit, hardest thing is removing the old bump stop thing if your van is old and its rusty (mine was new so easy), so bear that in mind as the captive nut can come off and cause challenges.
Good luck

I didn’t try, and no idea if there would be room? It is vv tight! Sorry, no idea if it’d fit there or not

Sorry, this comment was spammed!
Personally, I think 2x gauges are better as it stops air moving from one bellow to the other under cornering, and will also help with leak detection. My kit, they only supply 1x gauge so I asked for another.
Oh – don’t pressurise to the max – it’ll be rock hard!! It won’t legally change the moho payload, it will just make it ride better/higher and look less loaded, but won’t incease payload capacity unless you then get it replated etc – but there will be other requirements to that – speak to experts if you need to replate (e.g. sv tech)

Fair point well made!
I’m afraid I can’t remember – I’d assume it was “unlock” but sadly can’t recall 🙁

🙂 Sketchup file created, and loads of YouTube vids from CAD to “finished”.
Enjoy – and good luck

And another
Hi Sharon. 3yrs blimey. Feels like yesterday. Still working well though :)Every install is different so I can’t be specific. But look up 12v linear actuator – eg https://amzn.to/2Zyletf or ebay. Probably around £30-40 mark max. Size depends on your bed and how its fixed. Ours just pushes “up” and not fixed on the downstroke.. And simply, a DPDT momentary switch https://amzn.to/2rE6pJd – and look at our blog. That should be enough to go on? Good luck

Hi Sarah
If you go to the Youtube link direct https://youtu.be/7QVPqNIXZkg – and scroll down, the same question has been asked by others – so if you expand the comments/replies you’ll get me answering for others. Answers may be a bit old now, or out of stock, but is a good basis for you to search. One reply was: Really not sure what you want, but I’ll try. You need to know how much you want to push up – and how much space underneath. So you then need a 12v actuator – like http://amzn.to/2s0nU3F – which is a 10″ one. You can get 8″. the size is really all you need. Power one way (eg + and – )and it goes up (to stop) and the other way (- and +) it goes down (to stop). how you make it fit and work is up to your design. the switch is http://amzn.to/2s0nU3F which is a DPDT momentary rocker. Use centre pins to the actuator. then put +12v on side 1 “up” and 2 “down” and 0v on side 2 down and 1 up. So the centre pins get + and – when pressed one way, and – and + when pressed the other.then just fabricate brackets you need and hey presto….!Its an “easy” job, but you need to think about how the motor can help you. e.g. on ours, we only push the bed up. So, I used a different switch than above (but wired the same). So rather than having 2 positions (and sitting in the middle) mine is always off unless pressed. So I press the button and it goes up – let go and it goes down. So totally depends on your usage.Good luck

Very kind – with the mention of beer…. 🙂
May I suggest you look at sbmcc forum? Its the best self build forum I know of – quality vs quantity of posts is very high. I’d not have started or finished without the advice from there.

Thanks for kind comments! Feel free to copy. Other videos and pics show CAD onwards, of you want the CAD files let me know (Sketchup 2017)
Camping Chairs (that roll into a bag) and (flat) sunloungers and power kite and kick scooter will all fit into the garage with the bikes.
Would I do the same if single? Yes – brilliant – single bed without making it up. Double if you get lucky. Loads of room – and more loungable than most L2 layouts. (Captain chairs are too formal).
Watch our CAD walk though video to see reasoning for L sofa and not cab. It actually gives more storage; more and more comfortable seating area; and easier to insulate. Not right for all, so think it though
Good luck!

(note: we did have 2x dedicated leisure batteries)

Indefinately. Longest trip in this van was 6 weeks (Norway and Sweden!)
In the summer, the batteries were 100% charged by 9am or 10am from solar – and that was after running lights/laptop and fridge 24×7. Add in driving, and its even quicker. Over winter, the solar will struggle, but during the summer – 120w was totally fine.

Hi, ive sold the van now. The d250s was faultless. Simple, basic, but just worked. Ours (MY16) did not have a smart alternator. The d250s was perfect size on the NV

Sorry, don’t know, may be van specific or even window kit specific. Speak to the place you want to buy from.

I wondered if anyone on here can help me, I’ve recently bought a mk6 transit that was originally a tdci but has a tddi engine fitted. The issue is no boost and I have now realised that there is no sensor on the intercooler pipe (the usual 4 pin type) and the only plug in that location on this one is a 2 pin one. There is an electronic sensor on the bulkhead with a small air pipe coming out of it, also there is no sensor on the air filter box either I’m stuck.

Brilliant!!! Thanks for telling me, its these type of comments that make it all worthwhile!

Thanks! Will be uploading week 5 update later…. The scrim foam leatherette looks good, but would be slow – e.g. you need to spray and affix then let dry. If you try and manipulate you can squish in the foam and it sticks… Not ideal!

Tow bar post added as well as YouTube vid. No idea how to add a notify thing on here – so that may take a while

Hi
I fitted tow bar – there will be a video coming up soon 🙂 It was the first job which had “challenges” and I had to await other parts. It was an OK job, apart from getting some electrics working.
Hmm – you are right, no “follow” on the blog. I’ll take a look later in the week and see if I can fix that.
You can subscribe to YouTube of course
I’ll shout when I’ve fixed/found “follow”!

Hi.
The base van is in Sketchup libary – so see https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/search/?q=ducato – I just picked one, deleted everything inside, and started from scratch. I did check the dimensions!
I’ve never used Sketchup before, so took me a day or two to create the model and then fine tune it from there. Good luck

Hi
As far as I remember, the kit had everything in it, and for constant +12v the guide said to connect to the front battery
This was optional
I did not need it or want it so didn’t connect it.
(Note also I have +12v from engine in the back anyway for the battery to battery charger as its a camper – so for me, if I wanted it, I’d just connect to that (fused).)
Its not a tough job – just be careful removing bumper (daunting but mine was OK) – and do wires and bar together – I did bar then refitted bumper then had to remove it again for the wires!

Hi. We do but are in Wilts. If you are on Facebook there is an NV200 forum there and people all around, and a few with electric. The elec is a good idea, but depends on your usage – for us it’d not work (trips of many 1000s of miles). Campsites don’t have enough power to charge EVs. So plan carefully…. Ours may be for sale in a month or so if our new van comes as expected…