You’ll never guess what Ryan, I’ve only been and gone and bought another Innovation! An ’08 Innovation 3, 110PS with 45k miles. I hope I’m going to enjoy sorting it out.
It’s going back to the dealer on Monday as they sold it with 105 year old original tyres on the back, the chair blows baking hot, not chilled and the n/s audio speaker is silent.
It had to have a new exhaust last week because it fell apart near home at the end of our first proving trip. Dealer paying.
Good few other bits need rattling but for a 10 year old, it’s in fair nick.
Just an update. DO NOT copy the idea for the pull-out filler.
Twice now, the blue filler pipe (Cak tanks) has split. Its not because its tight, but for some reason it splits where it moves (e.g. bends straight, then bends back). So it seems to be OK when static, even at tight angles, but when it moves it must weaken it quite a lot.
Fortunately when testing everything and cleaning the tanks we noticed (not hard when loads of water pours into the cupboard).
So now plan B – we now fill from the same filler, but fixed and accessible from the offside door. Good job we have 2x sliding doors! 🙂
A credit to you, it’s very heartening to see that some people like to share knowledge and experience. That’s what this world should be about.
Fabulous.
Love your blog and am most impressed with the professional feel to it. We are caravanners with 40 overseas trips behind us gained since we gratefully joined the “scrapheap” when our industries were privatized, more modest itineraries than yours but we have camped in 12 countries for 4 months a year and want to continue as long as possible. Couldn’t agree more with your sentiments about living for today.
The bed, all in with me making the boards and screwing them on, VW Rusty Lee making the frame, and a local company doing the foam and upholstery – was <£1k - maybe £550-600 for frame, £350-400 for upholstery.
TBH - the frame is FANTASTIC - far better made than most - worth a LOT more IMO.
Plastic tile edge trim stuck with contact adhesive.
Its *ok* but I bet there is a better way! Maybe if you can cut carpet better than me, and glue neater than me, go without. Or if you find better trim let me know. Could do better here….
I guessed that was what it was but was unsure as it must have taken a bit of cuttting to get a uniforn decent edge, especially on the tight corners. I have looked at different options as I think it is so difficult to get a neat carpet edge no matter how good my cutting skills are. I have some samples of thin rubber U edging on their way to me which “may” be a solution, I will let you know how I get on.
Please do!
Just FYI, I used rubber trim on other bits, and getting it to stick wasn’t great – my contact-adhesive just refused to stick to it. But, if you’ve got rubber trim that you can stuck, I reckon that’ll be 10x better – so looking forward to hearing. Good luck
Loving the blog.
I am in process of converting my NV200 at the moment.
Question for you….
I notice that you seem to have fixed silver thermal insulation to all metal surfaces first around the windows and the top section of the sliding doors etc and then you fixed the carpet on top of that. Did you do this all over and if so what is the advantage over just fixing lining carpet to these areas?
Hi
Good question.
I only did it covering the “holes” in the removed panels on the doors. This was then sealed to create a moisture/vapour barrier. The doors have holes for handle that lets in water, and this is to allow the water “out”. The ply/carpet panel goes on top. On the rest of the doors, and around the windows is just carpet. Why? In a small van, when you breath you get condensation. Any bare metal will get wet. That’s a fact. Why don’t the pro’s do it? Because its a b****d of a job lol!
Some other panels were insulated with a cross between the 7mm foam & silver, or the 3mm silver thermawrap – just to maximise insulation really.
But the doors, its only the “openings” where the innards are I covered.
See the entire photo nbuild process for more pics
Hope this helps?
Hi Ryan and Mel, thnak you so much for your knowledgeable website! I’ve been told that if I don’t have a pop top (which I don’t, as I’m a keen stealth campervanner!) There won’t be enough room for adults to sit on the back seats comfortably, as there will only be 82cm from seat to roof. Do you find that, is that why you had the skylight? Thanks for any advice you’ve got
Define comfortably? Out last cars were a Puma and an MX5 – so the van has lots more room 🙂
But you are right – and some things we took into account to negate this
1 – the roof we didn’t insulate as well as we wanted, and we didn’t ply-over the roof crossmembers – we insulated between. this gives a few more mm (20?) head room
2 – the loo under the bed was priority – so seat height is mm perfect to get access to the loo, and bed modified with flat front cross member at floor (not box section) saving another 20mm
3 – the seat “reclines” so the angle of the back has a couple of possible settings, and when angled means you have more headroom as you lean back.
Is it tight? Yep. (its a small van!). Does it work – yep.
We have 82cm from top of seat to roof (how on earth you got the same measurement is beyond me lol!) – but 86cm following seat back angle.
If you don’t have the loo under you could lower the seat a bit as our seat does feel a bit high to sit on – but the loo was essential for us as we wild camp.
Small van = lots of compromises – just need to fine tune for you.
Hi,just done my waterpump and pas pump,i done it the easy way.Remove both headlights,front bumper,crossmember and front panel,all bolt on.Unclip radiator top,bottom and over flow hoses and swing radiator to the side and you are there,easily accessible.All done in the afternoon,dismantled and back together,might be worth trying.It worked for me,cheers for now.
No – it is special lightweight ply which is coated. MUCH straighter than normal ply and about 1/2 the weight. Expensive though – £45-50 for 8×4 sheet of plain stuff I used for non visible areas, and £120+ for the finished stuff. Has a very fine layer of covering.
Available from specialist suppliers in self-build parts.
Hi, what’s the thickness of the battens you used around the wheels? I wasn’t sure if they are 5mm or 15mm. Did you put 11mm plywood on the top of them?
Not sure where you mean? the wheel arches? If so the arches are just the 7mm foam insulation and carpet straight over the wheel arch.
We only battoned the floor as above – and really can’t remember the sizes.
Hi there. I’ve been following your blog keenly and am doing a conversation on my own NV. Question if I may, did you fill up the area behind the vent trims vents behind the wheel arches? Or is some sort of air exchange required down there?
Hi
I insulated the entire bit – BUT – I left the vent clear to the outside – so there is airflow there. Your enemy in a small van is condensation and having air movement is essential. Our roof light and side windows are also “vented” – so there is always air movement. Without it, when you breath, the air gets moist, and in an hour or two the inside of the van would be wet. Also you want CO and CO2 (and propane) to get out – so low vents are good. So – keep vents open 🙂
Is it this one http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-loft-insulation-l8m-w370mm-t100mm/197658_BQ.prd?ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700018862572466&utm_source=google_cpc&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PX_GSC_Building_Outdoor_Best_Sellers&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFwPqmhupG8YoJvpW0fL8clMkzgn_qy0bqpOMP5NJNs23AZnSctd3DsaAi5WEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJCKqu7ur9cCFfiE7QodlP8G9A ?
Hi
Not sure about the B&Q one – that may be a worth a try, but not sure. the normal loft stuff absorbs water. Took me a while to find it – but I bought this stuff from megavanmats http://www.megavanmats.com/apps/webstore/products/category/1231817?page=1
I’m in the early stages of converting a combi – is there an easy way to remove the steps? The main one of interest is the offside one as I need to check to see if there’s water leaking under it – it may just be from the door handle (there was obvious water on the step and also in the clear plastic inside the door, which should have stopped it getting onto the step). Of course, it could just be from when I got in yesterday, but I don’t think it was raining that heavily.
There are 2 obvious clips at the ends of the step but it’s still reluctant to move and I don’t want to force it. Any help greatfully received
Hi. The door handle is designed to leak, so you need to ensure there is a drainage channel. The step is obvious 🙂 ON THE VAN VERSION there are only a few obvious bolts and then it pulls off. FROM MEMORY the step is clipped in by rubber-over-ball type fittings so is snug when fitted and needs coaxing off. Be brave! (Assuming it is the same of course!!) If you send me a photo I can say if it looks the same?
Thanks. I’ll look again when I have time tomorrow and get some photos, but on entering the van this morning there was water on the step again and signs of water getting through along the seal at the top of the door. The seal seems to be intanct so unclear what’s going wrong. 7 days left on the warranty so will have to investigate soon
Ours is fine and doesn’t leak at the top, but our transit did briefly.
The sliding door can be adjusted and “pulled in” at the top – so MAYBE yours is slightly out of adjustment. Maybe stick lots of strips of paper so they are trapped at the top by the seal when door is closed, and see if they pull out easily. If so seal is not compresed enough.
The adjustment was on the “clips” where the door closes (on the transit).
Thanks. I’ve discovered that the slight leak was because the weather strip seal on the body where the door meets at the top was missing on the off-side. They’re looking for it but I’m not holding out much hope. The seem to be difficult to find online except from the US or Germany so I may need to go to a dealer.
re. the plastic steps. For anyone wanting to remove them in the future – they’re fixed with plastic clips. Half of them can be seen if you get under the car and they can be freed with pliers whilst pulling up on the step at that location. Once one edge is done the other edge comes up reasonably easily.
Nope! No chance. A slow cooker will take 0.7kw over, say, 4 hours cooking time? 0.7kw @ 240v = 3A @ 240v. At 12v this would be 60A (!!).
So 240AH over a 4 hr period. Ideally You should never use >50% of battery power, so you’d need 5x 100AH batteries for powering a slow cooker for 4hrs – and after than they’d be flat. You’d then struggle to charge them!
For heating, cooking, gas is the best/only way in a campervan away from hookup or generator.
Hi can u help we got a pick up 2.4 before the turbo went on last week it was onlly doing 40 mph then the turbo pack in we put a turbo on yeaster day and it still doing 40 can y help us please
Beyond whats on this page, I know nothing, and I’ve never seen a 2.4 So hopefully someone else can help. Also look at the fordtransit.org forum – those guys know their stuff. Good luck
Hmmm. Probably, yes, but I’d not recommend it. for the seat to swivel it needs to be in a particular “place” front to back. If you fixed it there, its not optimum for either sitting in as a passenger, or as a habitation seat. It needs to be “towards the back” for the passenger to have room when driving, and “towards the front of the van” when rotated for the habitation to have room (and to make room for loo). Youd also need to open the door to rotate which you don’t with sliders.
So yes, probably, but I wouldn’t.
Why without runners? They are cheap and don’t actually alter the height of the seat compared to how it is made – even with the turntable?
I have bought swivel but don’t have the back and forth mechanism is there a way of buying something that can use the back and forth so the swivel will work
Hi, Yes, you can buy car seat rails (ebay) – just get a model you think will fit. I bought a low profile race approved one but was a pain to make the release bar but apart from that was OK. use good rated bolts too rather (IIRC 10.9?) – but check
hey! When you installed the solar panel and all this energy system, the idea was to use this only for the gadgets in the van or also for A/C?
I just recently started to research what to do with my cargo van and want to add seats and a/c, some led lights and so.
A/C as in “air conditioning”? If so – no – 12v / solar/ battery will not run air con – or if it does, not for very long. Habitation air con is too much current for that – it needs mains hookup. You also can’t use the engine air con without the engine running.
If you mean A/C as in “mains power” – then the CTEK only does solar/engine/habitation battery – and that’s enough – the solar keeps the batteries full even when running the compressor fridge. Even on campsites where we have 240v – we don’t plug in. (We have separate 240v-12v charger system – see blog).
Everything runs on 12v, lights, pump, laptops, tech, etc – no need for 240v unless, say, camping over winter and need constant heating where a 240v heater may be needed?
Wow, what a comprehensive explanation of the difference between Open and Secure wifi. Very helpful in my travels as well as when I’m settled in for a bit in a beautiful place. Thank you from the USA (no, he’s not my president!).
Love this blog.Thank you for sharing. A few questions….The insulation used on floors,wheel wells,do you know of a US based company?
Can I glue carpet directly to the insulation,especially on the wheel wells? I assume so since nothing was mentioned. ‘m pretty sure I will have more questions in the near future(yah you!)
No idea of US company, its just 7mm closed cell foam with silver vapour barrier and one side and high temp adhesive on the other. You NEED high temp adhesive otherwise it will melt and drop off in the dun.
I glued carpet directly to the insulation – see build pics. Again – HIGH QUALITY HIGH TEMP contact adhesive.
Hi very informative article,glad you got your problem sorted.The problem I have on my 2.4 durotorque 05 plate is when its in top gear roughly 50-60 mph wont go any faster than that when I put my foot down through to top gear the vehicle suddenly feels very lumpy like fuel restriction.your thoughts would be much appreciated cheers David.
No idea – I’ve never touched a 2.4 – the article was for my personal van only, but the checklist should be the same. Of course, injectors and fuel pump could be the issue too. Best bet is to go to fordtransit.org forum and ask there – but just do the obvious tests listed here first 🙂
Hey this is all amazing! 🙂 i also have this van which i use for work and occasionally camping at work (childrens entertainer at events).
I have question though for rear insulation.. both sides is a small vent, mine are actually are quite dirty inside from dirt and moisture outside. Did you seal these parts off to make moisture barrier as well as carpeting over etc, or just kept open for more air flow? I also have a window so not sure if best to keep or just seal off?..
Thanks 🙂
Hi Bekki
Most definitely, left them open. Also the skylight is “always vented” as are the two side windows. You NEED air movement, otherwise you die 🙂 But also if you sleep in the van the condensation will be immense and it will condensate on metal and rust the van eventually from the inside. So airflow is essential.
Great thanks for that 🙂 I’m not normally a DIY’y kind of person but quite chuffed so far thanks to your blog! 🙂 So now wondering if you created some sort of barrier between the vent area and where the insulation under your wood boxes meet (and same of course for the other side)? Or just roughly filled around the vent with fluff up to the side? Just a little wary of my fluff getting damp from it as its quite mucky in the vents.
Nope. No barrier. The plastic cover over the vent was put back. No insulation or anything – totally clear for air flow.
Insulated above and left inside (but left wiring cabling clear). Used the white wool type insulation (but its the non water absorbing stuff, not loft stuff). Don;’t use the loft stuff – it gets/stays wet.
not seen any dirt there? But one side is behind the gas locker so out of site, and the other side under the bed is just there…. Not seen any muck there.
I do have mudguards. do you?
I have been looking at the Nissan NV200 for some time but your conversion has now made up my mind.
I was initially looking at the Combi but your comments have now made me look at the van. I noticed in one of your comments re insurance that you said you wanted it for business as well as pleasure.
Did you get the VAT back on the vehicle based on the dual use?
No, our business is not vat registered so that wasn’t an option. Business use for us is just commuting. It was a 100% private purchase away from the business.
If it was used as a van for a VAT registered business use,, then you may be able to get the vat back and/or tax relief – but you would need to use it as a van for the business. See your accountant as it probably is pushing the boundaries 🙂 Using it as a van for 3 years then selling to yourself to convert may be possible – and why we see so many VW T5 trade vans!
But, for us, nope – tax and vat fully paid 🙁
Hi
We have enjoyed reading about your adventures in your NV200 so much so that we have paid a deposit for a year old NV200 Combi.
However we have just hit a bit of a snag as I have discovered that taking out the rear seats will be classed as a modification and will invalidate any insurance. This is now putting us off completing the purchase.
Could I ask you who you are insured with as they presumably are ok with the changes you have made. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I’m surprised removing rear seats in the combi would invalidate insurance?
For the first year, I was with Brentacre (Mark Study) who insured it as a van during the conversion, and were aware of all changes so I was fully legit.
Second year, Adrian Flux.
My challenge was that I wanted a self-build campervan AND class-2 business insurance, and sadly the two didn’t readily mix.
So the above two, especially Brentacre, were very very flexible in modifications and not *that* expensive. (Though told, my paperwork n renewal wasn’t 100% perfect, hence I left).
Thanks. We are now the proud owners of a one year old NV200 Combi. I have removed the row of three seats and have it in writing off my insurance that they are ok about it as you said. The plan is to use it as it is for a while and then look to make modifications. Have bought a quechua pop up awning which is great.
Cheers.
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